The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
It was in those “good old days” that are so interesting to read about, and
were so ill to live in, that the ancient hospice flourished most bravely.
When ways were not merely rough and lonely, but were also infested by
“sturdye beggaris,” “maysterless men,” and others who would not hesitate
to do the solitary traveller a hurt, the good abbots or monks who
established wayside houses of entertainment where no secular innkeeper
dared were truly benefactors to their species. The relic of just such a
place, on a road once extremely lonely and dangerous, is to be found along
the present highway between Brecon and Llandovery, in South Wales, some
two miles westward of the town of Brecon. The road runs terraced above the
southern bank of the river Usk, through a rugged country where, in ancient
times, Welsh chieftains and outlaws, alike lawless and beggarly, knocked
the solitary traveller on the head and went over his pockets amid the
appropriately dramatic scenery of beetling crag and splashing waterfall.
At the gate of this lurk of bandits the holy monks of Malvern Priory
founded an hospitium, on the spot where stand to-day the ancient and
picturesque church and the few houses of the village of Llanspyddid: whose
Welsh name, indeed, means the Hospice Church.
Nothing, unfortunately, is left of that “spythy,” or hospice, they so
piously built and maintained, for, its usefulness long overpast, it was
left to decay: but the church they built, in which travellers returned
thanks for the succour vouchsafed them, remains by the roadside. It is a
romantic-looking church, placed in an appropriate setting of extremely
ancient and funereal-looking yews that lead up darkly to the heavy north
porch, beautifully decorated with carved woodwork.
The “George” at Glastonbury presents the finest exterior of all these
pilgrims’ inns, for it stands to-day very much as it did in the time of
Edward the Sixth, when it was built (1475) by Abbot John Selwood for the
accommodation of such pilgrims as were not personages. There has ever been
a subtle distinction between a personage and a mere person. The great
ones, the high and mighty of the land, on pilgrimage were made much of,
and entertained by my lord Abbot in appropriately princely fashion, in the
Abbot’s lodgings: the middle-class pilgrims were lodged at the Abbot’s
inn, and the residue lay where best they might: perhaps in some
guesten-hall, or possibly in the open air.
Pilgrimages to Glastonbury were less numerous and popular than those to
the pre-eminent Shrine of the Blessed St. Thomas at Canterbury, but they
were not few, for the story of this great mitred Somersetshire Abbey is
one of the marvels and legendary wonders that, however greatly they may
stagger the twentieth-century capacity for belief, were of old implicitly
relied upon. Few were those who in mediæval times questioned their
genuineness, and those who did so kept their doubts prudently to
themselves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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