The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
For the quietude of the place! How cynical a reverse of fortune, that the
busiest spot on the London, Oxford and Birmingham Road, where sixty
coaches rolled by daily, and where innumerable post-chaises changed
horses, should sink thus into slumber! The thought of such a change would,
seventy years ago, have been inconceivable; just as unthinkable as that
Clapham Junction of to-day should ever become a rural spot for picnics and
the plucking of primroses.
A curious feature in the story of “Chapel House” inn is that a small
portion of the house has in recent times been rebuilt, for the better
accommodation of present visitors. In the course of putting in the
foundations some relics of the old chapel were unearthed, in the shape of
stone coffins, bones, a silver crucifix, and some beads.
When evening draws in and the last pallid light in the sky glints on the
old casements of the wayside cottages of “Chapel House,” or in the dark
avenue, the spot wears a solemn air, and seems to exhale Romance.
London inns retired from business are, as may be supposed, comparatively
few. A curious example is to be found under the shadow of St. Alban,
Holborn, in “White Hart” Yard, between Gray’s Inn Road and Brooke Street.
It is the last fragment of an old galleried building, presumably once the
“White Hart,” but now partly occupied by a dairyman and a maker of
packing-cases. Local history is silent as to the story of the place.
Of all converted inns, there is probably no stranger case than that of the
“Edinburgh Castle.” It is not old, nor was it really and truly, in the
hearty, hospitable sense, an inn, although the landlord doubtless was
included in the all-comprising and often deceptive category of “licensed
victuallers,” who very generally do not victual you. The “Edinburgh
Castle” was, in short, a great flaring London gin-palace in Limehouse. It
has been described by a journalist addicted above his fellows to
superlatives--the equivalent in literature of nips of brandy “neat”--as
“one of the flashiest, most flaunting, sin-soaked dens in London,” which
is just so much nonsense. It _was_, however, a public-house on a large
scale, and did a big trade. It was ornate, in the vulgar, gilded
public-house way, and not what can properly be styled a “den.”
[Illustration: “WHITE HART” YARD.]
Those curious in conversions may easily see to-day what the “Edinburgh
Castle” was like, for its outward look is unchanged, and many an old
frequenter, come back from foreign climes--or perhaps only from H.M.
Prison on Dartmoor--shoulders his way in at the old familiar doors and
calls for his “four ’arf,” or his “two o’ brandy,” before he becomes aware
of the essential change that has come over the place. No more booze does
he get at the “Edinburgh Castle”: only coffee, tea, or the like--which do
not come under that head. The “Edinburgh Castle” has indeed been acquired
by the Barnardo Homes for the “People’s Mission Church.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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