England -- Antiquities; England -- Description and travel; Roads -- Great Britain
Just outside the town the road begins to rise: it is an indication
that the road is about to take the flank of the hills, a position
which it holds uninterruptedly (save for four short gaps occasioned by
four river valleys) from this point until the Camp above Canterbury.
Hitherto, for reasons which I have explained, the road has had no
opportunity of this kind. The hills of the Itchen valley were not
sufficiently conspicuous, those of the upper Wey too tortuous, for the
trail to take advantage of a dry, even, and well-drained slope. The
height to which it rises between Ropley and Alton is not a height
chosen for its own purpose, but a height which had to be overcome of
necessity to cross the watershed. Henceforward, until we were within a
few miles of Canterbury, there stretched before us, on and on, day
after day, the long line of the northern heights, whose escarpment
presented everything the Old Road needed for its foundation, and of
which I have written at such length in the earlier portion of this
book.
The rise continued gently until the inn at Rumbold was passed, and the
fork at Whiteways was reached. Here the old flanking road went up
along the ridge of the Hog's Back in the shape of the modern turnpike,
while our track was left to continue its eastward way, two hundred
feet below, upon the side of the hill.
Its soil was here a thin strip of the green-sand which continued to
support us, until next day we crossed the Tillingbourne, just above
Shere. It runs, therefore, firmly and evenly upon a dry soil, and the
villages and the churches mark its ancient progress.
The afternoon was misty, even the telegraph poles, which at first
marked the ridge of the Hog's Back above us, disappeared in the first
half mile. We went unhappily and in the fog regretting the baker's
cart which had taken us along many miles of road so swiftly and so
well: a cart of which I have not spoken any more than I have of the
good taverns we sat in, or of the curious people we met (as for
instance, the warrior at Farnham), because they are not germane to
such an historical essay as is this.
We went, I say, regretting the baker's cart, and came to the wonderful
church of Seale standing on its little mound. We noted that the track
passed to southward of it, not right against its southern porch, but
as near as it could get, given the steep accident of the soil just
beyond. We noted this (but dully, for we were very tired), and we
plodded on to Shoelands.
We were in the thick of the memories which are the last to hang round
the Old Road, I mean the memories of those pilgrims, who, after so
many thousand years of its existence, had luckily preserved the use
and trace of the way.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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