The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
According to the author of a project, printed in London in 1723, in
8vo., “for the relief of the poor, and the payment of old debts, without
the creation of new taxes,” Queen Catherine herself could not procure a
salad for her dinner. The king was obliged to send over to Holland for
a gardener to cultivate those pot-herbs, with which England is, perhaps,
better furnished now than any other country in Europe.
Anderson asserts (1660) that cauliflowers were not known in England
until about the time of the Restoration. And, lastly, the author of the
“State of England,” printed in 1768, remarks that asparagus and
artichokes were only introduced a few years antecedent to that date.
VIII.
DRIED VEGETABLES.
BEANS.
This innocent vegetable, which with us certainly awakens no lugubrious
thoughts, was formerly consecrated to the dead. It was offered in
sacrifices to the infernal gods, and its mysterious virtues evoked by
night, spirits, and shadows.[VIII-1] The Flamen of Jupiter could not eat
it, and he was forbidden to touch a bean, or even to pronounce its
name;[VIII-2] for the fatal plant contains a little black spot, which is
no other than a noxious character--a type of death.[VIII-3]
Pythagoras and his followers carefully avoided this dismal food, in the
fear of submitting a father, sister, or beloved wife to the danger of a
cruel mastication;[VIII-4] for who knew where wandering souls might rest
during the course of their numerous transmigrations.
Grave writers say the cause of this abstinence is, that beans are
difficult of digestion; that they stupify those who make use of them as
food; and that hens who eat them cease to lay eggs.[VIII-5] What more
shall we say? Hippocrates, wise as he certainly was, had some of these
strange fears, and he trembled for his patients when beans were in
blossom.[VIII-6]
In spite of such ridiculous prejudices, this plant had numerous and
enlightened defenders. When green, it was served on tables renowned for
delicacies; and, when fully ripe, it frequently replaced both wheat and
other corn.[VIII-7] One of the festivals of Apollo--the
_Pyanepsia_--owed its origin and pomp to the bean. This vegetable then
obtained preeminence over all that were boiled in the saucepan, and
offered to the God of Day and the Fine Arts.[VIII-8] Is it possible to
imagine a more brilliant rehabilitation?
If we are to believe Isidorus, this plant was the first culinary
vegetable of which man made use;[VIII-9] he was, therefore, bound to
preserve a grateful remembrance of it.
King David did not deem it unworthy of him,[VIII-10] and the Prophet
Ezekiel was commanded to mix it with the different grains of which he
made his bread.[VIII-11]
We possess few certain indications proving the different culinary
combinations to which beans gave rise among the ancients. All we know
is, that they ate them boiled,[VIII-12] perhaps with bacon;
raw,[VIII-13] with salt, we should imagine; or fried[VIII-14] with fat,
butter, or oil.
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