Virgil was doubtless ignorant of this noble origin, when he decried haricots severely, by qualifying them so disgracefully.[VIII-22] It is true that the lower classes of people, who were very fond of them, did great injury to their reputation; for things the most exquisite soon lose their value when they fall within the reach of the vulgar. It is thus with a pleasing melody--when given up to the barbarous and melancholy street organs it ceases to charm the ears of drawing-room fashionables. The same again with a plaintive ballad--it loses its attraction the moment a street Orpheus begins to murder it with his Stentorian bawl. Let it not be thought, however, that the plant of which we speak was exclusively reserved for the vulgar appetite. Oh, no! the Greeks and Latins had too much good taste for that. The former allowed it a distinguished place on their tables, together with figs, and other side dishes. They only required that haricots should be young, tender, and green.[VIII-23] In Rome they were preserved with vinegar and garum; and, prepared in this manner, they excited the appetites of the guests at the beginning of the repast.[VIII-24] Moreover, it was admitted that this vegetable was much more wholesome than beans, that the stomach was less fatigued by it, and that persons of delicate constitutions might partake of it without fear. Certain amateurs even pretended that no vegetable was to be compared to haricots;[VIII-25] but others differed from them on this point; and the latter, right or wrong, pronounced in favour of peas. PEAS. Green peas, we are sorry to say, were not appreciated as they deserved to be by the Romans.[VIII-26] It was reserved principally for our century to discover their value, to cultivate them with care, and to force nature to give them to us before the appointed time. This plant was hardly known in 1550. Since that period, the gardener, Michaux, undertook to bring it into repute. For some time in France it was called only by the name of this worthy man.[VIII-27] Before that it was an unappreciated vegetable; it came forth, blossomed, and disappeared, without utility and without renown. It was not thus with grey peas (_pois chiche_), which flourished at a very remote period, and are mentioned in the sacred writings.[VIII-28] The common people of Rome and Greece made them their ordinary food. They ate them boiled or fried; a rather disagreeable dish, according to the caustic Martial,[VIII-29] who, however, speaks with disdain of every kind of peas, in whatsoever manner they may be prepared. Nevertheless, the satirical humour of this celebrated poet did not prevent this vegetable from being universally sold; and men, women, and children regaled, and even gorged, themselves, with fried grey peas,[VIII-30] or ram peas (_cicer arietinum_), a singular name, for which they were indebted to the slight asperity remarkable in each of the grains.[VIII-31]