The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
The art of gardening, which may be called the luxury of
agriculture,[IX-1] was known at the most remote periods.[IX-2] In the
same inclosure was to be found the kitchen garden, orchard, and flower
garden,[IX-3] at a short distance from the habitation of the rich.[IX-4]
Royal hands did not disdain to embellish those spots which afforded a
pleasing retreat, solitude, and repose.
Thus Attalus resigned the cares of his crown to cultivate his little
garden, and sow in it the seeds of his favourite plant.[IX-5]
Babylon, the renowned city of antiquity, was celebrated amongst other
wonders for her gardens suspended in the air; they were partly in
existence sixteen centuries after their erection, and astonished
Alexander the Great[IX-6] by the sublime grandeur of their prodigious
boldness and the rare beauty of their workmanship.
Homer has left us the description of Alcinous’s garden,[IX-7] from which
can be traced the birth of the art of gardening; its luxury consisted in
the order and symmetry of its form, in the richness of its soil, the
fertility of the trees, and in the two fountains which ornamented it. It
was not so with the Romans. Those conquerors of the world displayed
every where pomp and ostentation: Lucullus, Crassus, Pompey, and Cæsar,
filled their gardens with the riches of Asia and the spoils of the
universe.[IX-8]
The serious horticulturist, who wanted a garden for enjoyment, and not
for show, carefully laboured, to see it bring forth fine fruits and
excellent vegetables.[IX-9] Water was properly distributed for
irrigation by means of aqueducts[IX-10] of tiles, wood, or lead
pipes,[IX-11] and everywhere the plants received the necessary
moisture; and clever experienced gardeners were constantly occupied in
improvements suggested by an attentive and skilful master.[IX-12]
The kitchen garden of the ancients contained mostly the vegetables,
herbs, and roots, of which we still make use; but they also cultivated
certain other kinds, which modern cookery has either put aside or rarely
employs. We shall describe all those which appear most worthy of notice.
CABBAGE.
This plant has experienced the fate of a host of human things that have
not been able to bear the weight of a too brilliant reputation. Time has
done justice to the extraordinary qualities attributed to it, and the
cabbage now remains, what it ought always to have been, an estimable
vegetable and nothing more.
The Egyptians adored it, and raised altars to it. They afterwards made
of this strange god the first dish of their repasts, and were imitated
in this particular by the Greeks and Romans, who ascribed to it the
happy quality of preserving from drunkenness.[IX-13] It was more
particularly the red cabbage that obtained these honours and
prerogatives. From Italy the victorious legions introduced it among the
Gauls, as well as the green cabbage; the white species appears to belong
originally to southern countries.
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