The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
The first coffee tree was found in Arabia, and in spite of the
various transplantations it has undergone, the best coffee is yet
obtained there. An old tradition states that coffee was discovered
by a shepherd of old, who saw that his flock was always in the
greatest state of excitement and hilarity when they browsed on the
leaves of the coffee tree.
Though this may be but an old story, the honor of the discovery
belongs only in part to the goat-herd. The rest belongs to him who
first made use of the bean, and boiled it.
A mere decoction of green coffee is a most insipid drink, but
carbonization develops the aroma and forms an oil which is the
peculiarity of the coffee we drink, and which would have been
eternally unknown but for the intervention of heat.
The Turks excel us in this. They employ no mill to torturate the
coffee, but beat it with wooden pestles in mortars. When the
pestles have been long used, they become precious and are sold at
great prices.
I had to examine and determine whether in the result one or the
other of the two methods be preferable.
Consequently, I burned carefully a pound of good mocha, and
separated it into two equal portions, the one of which was passed
through the mill, and the other beaten Turkish fashion in a
mortar.
I made coffee of each, taking equal weights of each, poured on an
equal weight of boiling water and treated them both precisely
alike.
I tasted this coffee myself, and caused others who were competent
judges to do so. The unanimous opinion was that coffee which had
been beaten in a mortar was far better than that which had been
ground.
Any one may repeat the experiment. In the interim I will tell you
a strange anecdote of the influence of one or the other kind of
manipulation.
"Monsieur," said Napoleon, one day to Laplace, "how comes it that
a glass of water into which I put a lump of loaf sugar tastes more
pleasantly than if I had put in the same quantity of crushed
sugar." "Sire," said the philosophic Senator, "there are three
substances the constituents of which are identical--Sugar, gum
and amidon; they differ only in certain conditions, the secret of
which nature has preserved. I think it possible that in the effect
produced by the pestle some saccharine particles become either gum
or amidon, and cause the difference."
This remark became public, and ulterior observations has confirmed
it.
DIFFERENT MODES OF PREPARING COFFEE.
Some years ago all directed their attention to the mode of
preparing coffee; the reason doubtless was that the head of the
government was fond of it.
Some proposed not to burn nor to powder it, to boil it three
quarters of an hour, to strain it, &c.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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