During the last years of the reign of Louis XVIII, it was with regret that he perceived signs of the decadence of cookery. "Gastronomy is passing," were his words to Dr. Corvisart, "and with it the last remains of the old civilisation. It belongs to organised bodies, such as physicians, to direct all their energies towards preventing the disruption of society. Formerly France was filled with gastronomers because it numbered so many corporations, the members of which have been annihilated or dispersed. There are now no more farmer-generals, no more abbés, no more monks: the life of gastronomy resides in physicians like you, who are epicures by predestination. It is for you to hear with still greater firmness the weight with which you are laden by destiny. May you wipe out the fate of the Spartans at the pass of Thermopylae!" But the cry of the decadence of cookery is an ancient one, and occurs periodically, like that of the failure of vintages. It has always existed, and always will exist. It is the old burden, with Ronsard's modification: "Le temps s'en va, le temps s'en va, ma dame; Las! le temps non, mais nous nous en-allons." (Time hast'neth on, time hast'neth on, my dear; Nay, Time doth stay, and we the journeyers here.) Age and circumstances, surroundings and lack of hygienic observances, may dull the susceptibility of the most appreciative palate; the sense of taste also has its decrepitude. Celebrated chefs pass away, and with them passes the celebrity of famous restaurants. But other artists appear, and fresh successes are achieved-- "Thus times do shift, each thing his turn does hold; New things succeed as former things grow old."[15] [Illustration] OLD ENGLISH DISHES "In the olde time, * * * * * When Beefe, Bread & Beere, Was honest mens cheere, and welcome and spare not; And John and his Joane, Did live of their owne, full merily, though but all meanely." COBBES PROPHECIES, HIS SIGNES AND TOKENS, 1614.