The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
The expressions "vnbrace that malarde" and "dysmember that heron"
assure one that a wild fowl, however coriaceous, must have quickly
succumbed to the manipulation of his glittering steel. In no form of
carving, whether of meats, poultry, or game, does the skill of the
carver appear to greater advantage than in disjointing wild fowl.
This indeed calls for a trenchant blade and a thoroughly competent
practitioner. Witness the artist who follows every joint and ligament
as a stream follows its varying curves, and who lays out the rosy
breast just as if it had stopped beating in its flight. The ghosts of
many a mallard, broad-bill, and teal must quake in horror when they
remember the fate that awaited their earthly lot after their course had
been checked by the fowler and they fell into hands unworthy to conduct
their post-mortem. But the duck has been avenged by an anonymous bard
who has execrated the ruthless matador as he deserves:
"We all look on with anxious eyes
When father carves the duck,
And mother almost always sighs
When father carves the duck.
Then all of us prepare to rise
And hold our bibs before our eyes
And be prepared for some surprise
When father carves the duck.
"He braces up and grabs a fork
Whene'er he carves a duck,
And won't allow a soul to talk
Until he's carved the duck.
The fork is jabbed into the sides,
Across the breast the knife he slides,
And every careful person hides
From flying chips of duck.
"The platter always seems to slip
When father carves a duck,
And how it makes the dishes skip,
Potatoes fly amuck--
The squash and cabbage leap in space,
We get some gravy on our face,
And father mutters Hindu grace
Whene'er he carves a duck.
"We thus have learned to walk around
The dining-room, and pluck
From off the window-sills and walls
Our share of father's duck;
While father growls and blows and jaws,
And swears the knife was full of flaws,
And mother jaws at him because
He couldn't carve a duck."
In the "Kalendare de Potages dyuers" appears this recipe for _A goos in
hogepotte_: "Take a Goos, & make hure clene, & hacke hyre to gobettys,
& put yn a potte, & Water to, & sethe togederys; than take Pepir &
Brennyd brede or Blode y-boylyd, & grynd y-fere Gyngere & Galyngale &
Comyn, & temper vppe with Ale, and putte it ther-to; & mynce Oynonys, &
frye hem in freysshe grece, & do ther-to a porcyon of Wyne."
A strange entremets was one termed _Vyolette_, accompanied by these
directions: "Take Flourys of Vyolet, boyle hem, presse hem, bray hem
smal, temper hem vppe with Almaunde mylke, or gode Cowe Mylke, a-lye
it with Amyndown or Flowre of Rys; take Sugre y-now, an putte ther-to,
or hony in defaute; coloure it with the same that the flowrys be on
y'peynted a-boue."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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