The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Numerous bills of fare of banquets are given in the "Kalendare,"
including that of the coronation of Henry IV and the banquet of his
second marriage in 1404. It would appear that the ecclesiasts were
among the most princely entertainers, as evidenced by the bills of
fare of the feast of Richard Fleming, Bishop of Lincoln; a dinner
given by John Chandler, Bishop of Salisbury; an entertainment held in
1424 on the occasion of the funeral of Nicholas Budwith, Bishop of
Bath and Wells; and several others. In point of variety these feasts
might rank with those of ancient Rome. Venison, boar's head, veal,
oxen, and various pieces of roast figure in the courses. Among the
birds and wild fowl were capons, herons, cranes, peacocks, swans,
pheasants, and wild geese, together with innumerable smaller kinds,
such as plover, fieldfares, partridges, quail, snipe, teal, curlew,
woodcock, and larks. But the elaborate banquet where as many as a
hundred and four peacocks dressed in their plumage were included among
the "subtleties" was by no means a common occurrence, and the accounts
of these entertainments, together with the lavish festivities of
Christmas, should not be accepted as a criterion of the usual mode of
English living among the wealthy. The division line between the rich
and the poor, besides, was far more marked than at present, and it is
questionable whether even the higher classes, despite their occasional
excessive prodigality, maintained the same luxurious state of service
the year round as their modern successors.
The many carols on the boar's head and on ale which have come down to
us from old MSS. show in what request the one stood as a viand and the
other as a beverage. At certain seasons it was the habitual custom to
serve a particular dish first, as a boar's head at Christmas,--
"Furst set forthe mustard & brawne of boore, the wild swyne,"--
a goose at Michaelmas, and a gammon of bacon at Easter. The boar's
head was set upon its neck upon the platter, with an apple or a lemon
in its mouth and sprigs of rosemary in its ears and nose, the platter
being additionally decorated with garlands. Thus garnished and heralded
by trumpets, it was borne to the king's table on a salver of gold or
silver by the server, followed by a procession of nobles, knights, and
ladies. In Scotland it was sometimes brought to table surrounded by
banners displaying the colours and achievements of the baron at whose
board it was served. From time immemorial the double loin or baron of
beef has been a royal dish, and one especially selected is always sent
from Windsor to Osborne to appear at the dinner-table, accompanied by
that other Christmas dish, the boar's head, sent of late from Germany.
The oldest carol on the boar's head is probably that of the Balliol
MS., of which there are numerous versions:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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