The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
It may be assumed that Markham's recipes were not original with him,
but were compiled mostly from anterior works; we have no knowledge of
his having been a practical cook. For that matter, he states in his
dedication to the Countess Dowager of Exeter that he does not "assume
to himself the full invention and scope of the work, for it is true
that much of it was a manuscript which many years agone belonged to
an Honourable Countess, one of the greatest Glories of our Kingdom."
The material, therefore, is due mainly to a member of the gentler sex,
while Markham is responsible for the _liaison_. A voluminous author, he
did not hesitate to appropriate whatever material he could find on any
topic, more especially on husbandry and angling, and send it out as his
own. It is well known, for example, that his "Art of Fishing" in his
"Country Contentments" is only a prose rendition of Dennys' attractive
poem "The Secrets of Angling." He has been spoken of as the first hack
writer of England, all subjects seeming to have been alike to him. So
that "The English Housewife," which also includes much interesting
information on physics, the dairy, etc., may be regarded as virtually a
work of the Elizabethan period.
[Illustration: THE ENGLISH HOUSEWIFE
Facsimile of title-page]
In Markham's treatise there is a sauce for green-geese and one for
stubble-geese, a sauce for pigeons and stock-doves, a _gallantine_ for
bitterns, bustards, and herns. A _quelquechose_ was a fricassee or a
mixture of many ingredients, and meats broiled upon the coals were
termed _carbonadoes_. Verjuice was made from crab-apples, to which
damask-rose leaves were added previous to fermentation. Vinegar was
frequently made from ale placed in the sun to sour, and flavoured with
leaves of damask roses. A recipe for hippocras is naturally given,
together with directions for the manufacture of all manner of wines
and beverages. Puddings, pies, and tarts were still more familiar
then than now. Of pies there was an infinite assortment--from Olave,
marrow-bone, hare, chicken, bacon, herring, ling, and calves'-foot
to oyster, chewet, Warden, pippin, Codlin, and minc'd. Markham's
recipe for "A Herring Pye" will serve as well as any to illustrate
the character of the amalgams that passed under the names of pies,
puddings, and tarts:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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