The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians ThereinHardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
History
The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians Therein
Hardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
Peru -- Description and travel; Peruvian Amazon Company; Putumayo River; Rubber industry and trade -- Peru
As we were slowly drifting along the bank to get the benefit of the
current, which was strongest there on account of a bend in the river, I
discerned the dark outline of some large object lying upon an immense
fallen tree-trunk. Approaching nearer, we found to our astonishment that
it was an enormous boa-constrictor curled up fast asleep sunning
himself. As our rifle was out of order I took deliberate aim with the
shot-gun, and at a distance of some ten metres let fly at him. The
hideous monster jumped up and, after lashing his tail wildly about two
or three times, plunged with a splash into the water but a few metres
from our canoe and was lost to sight. From our short view of him we
perceived that he was of a dark-brown colour, except his belly, which
was white and about ten inches in diameter; his length being, as near as
we could judge, some twenty or twenty-five feet. These reptiles are
fairly numerous on the Putumayo.
Along here we noticed that the river followed a regular system of long
windings. First one bank would be eaten into by the strong current that
swept past it, while the opposite shore would be protected by an
extensive sand or gravel _playa_, often a kilometre or so in width. Then
the current would in the course of a couple of kilometres reach the
other bank and begin its scouring operations there, while the first
would commence to accumulate a _playa_.
This system of long curves or windings extends along the whole course of
the Putumayo, and it is to be observed in most of the large rivers of
the Amazon basin. It is this that makes the Putumayo so wide and shallow
and accounts for the numerous sand islands thrown up in mid-stream. In
low water the channel cut out by these everchanging currents must be
strictly followed by all steamers and launches in order to prevent
grounding.
At eleven o'clock we stopped and had lunch, which I had cooked
previously while Perkins was performing the rôle of _boga_, on a nice
shady _playa_ on the right bank. Here I managed to kill a good-sized
turkey, and, after continuing about two hours, I got another, so that
for dinner we had an excellent meal, the chief _pièce de résistance_
being roast turkey. This operation concluded, we tied up the canoe
securely, and instead of building a _rancho_ both went to sleep in the
canoe under the _pamacari_. It was a little crowded, but we got along
all right and passed the night quite comfortably.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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