The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians ThereinHardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
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The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians Therein
Hardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
Peru -- Description and travel; Peruvian Amazon Company; Putumayo River; Rubber industry and trade -- Peru
Taking a most affectionate leave of the worthy _capitán_, whose extreme
friendliness was doubtless inspired by our _aguardiente_, we resumed
our descent, and continued for a couple of hours, when, reaching a
convenient island, we stopped for the night. While I prepared dinner
Perkins shot a few small birds, which seemed to belong to a species of
dove, as bait, and, after our meal was over, we rigged up a couple of
lines and began fishing. Soon I felt a nibble at my hook, and when I
thought the fish had it well digested I pulled and had the satisfaction
of landing a fine big catfish. Perkins soon caught another, and
presently we had a good number of the handsome big fellows.
In the morning we enjoyed an excellent breakfast of fried fish, after
which we again set out. The river now became enormously wider on account
of its division into several _brazos_, some of which covered great
distances before rejoining the main channel. Large islands, covered with
the prevailing dense vegetation, commenced to appear with great
frequency, while tributaries of all sizes continued mingling their
contents with those of the main river. In fact, the whole country was
becoming a complete network of _brazos_ and _quebradas_, so intermingled
and so numerous that it was often difficult to distinguish the one from
the other. This continued all the way to the mouth of the river, and is
common to nearly all the great streams that empty into the Amazon.
Here we began to observe the _boto_, dog-fish or _pira-jaguar_,[79] of
the Indians, a huge fish often more than two metres in length, which
plays about in schools in many parts of the river. They would flop
awkwardly about, close to the boat, apparently quite at home with us. A
rather peculiar custom of theirs is that of gasping and snorting
violently, as though disgusted about something. Its flesh is not
edible--at any rate, the Cionis will not eat it. This fish is also known
as the dolphin of the Amazon.
During the whole day we suffered heavily from the suffocating heat, for
the burning rays of the equatorial sun shot down upon our unprotected
backs with a seemingly intentional fury, and not a breath of air stirred
all day. Our thirst was astounding, but, luckily, Materón had insisted
upon our taking along a quantity of limes, which now came in very handy
to alleviate it.
The next day, Tuesday, the 10th, at about ten o'clock, we met a party of
Indians, apparently returning to Montepa from a hunting expedition. We
hailed them and asked what luck they had had, but they hurried off
without replying, probably half-frightened to death at seeing two
genuine, full-blooded white men.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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