The Roof of France; Or, the Causses of the LozèreBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
The Roof of France; Or, the Causses of the Lozère
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
Lozère (France : Dept.) -- Description and travel
Do these wild-looking mountaineers exercise the electoral privilege? Do
they go to the poll, and what are their political views? Are their sons
drafted off, as the rest of French youth, into military service? Does a
newspaper, even the ubiquitous _Petit Journal_, penetrate into these
solitudes? It was difficult to get a satisfactory answer to all my
questions, and quite useless to make a tour of inquiry in the village.
One must speak the patois of the Caussenard to obtain his confidence,
and though the population is inoffensive, even French tourists are
advised on no account to adventure themselves in these parts without
being accompanied by a native of the country.
One thing is quite certain: The four thousand and odd wild,
sheepskin-wearing inhabitants of the entire region of the Causses must
erelong be nationalized--like the Breton and the Morvandial, undergo a
gradual and complete transformation. Travellers of another generation
on this road will not be stared at by the fierce-looking, picturesque
figures we now pass in the precincts of Sauveterre. Brigands they might
be, judging from their shaggy beards, unkempt locks, and Robinson
Crusoe-like dress; also their fixed, almost dazed, look inspires
anything but confidence. Still, we must remember that Sauveterre is in
the Lozère, and that the Lozère enjoys the enviable pre-eminence of
'white assizes'--a clean bill of moral health.
After quitting the village, which has a deserted look as of a
plague-stricken place, the road descends. We now follow the rim of a
far-stretching, tremendous ravine, its wooded sides running
perpendicularly down. For miles we drive along this giddy road, the
only protection being a stone wall not two feet high. The road,
however, is excellent, our little horses steady and sure-footed, and
our driver very careful. We are, indeed, too much interested in the
scenery to heed the frightful precipices within a few inches of our
carriage-wheels. But the retrospection makes one giddy. The least
accident or mishap, contingencies not dwelt upon whilst jogging on
delightfully under a bright sky, might, or rather must, here end in a
tragedy. Tourists should be quite sure of both driver and horses before
undertaking this drive.
By-and-by the prospect becomes inexpressibly grand, till the impression
of magnificence culminates as our road begins literally to drop down
upon St. Énimie, as yet invisible. Our journey must now be compared to
the descent from cloud-land in a balloon. Meantime, the stupendous
panorama of dark, superbly-outlined mountain-wall closes in. We seem to
have reached the limit of the world. Before us, a Titanic rampart,
rises the grand Causse Méjean, now seen for the first time; around,
fold upon fold, are the curved heights of Sauveterre, the nearer slopes
bright green with sunny patches, the remoter purply black.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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