The Roof of France; Or, the Causses of the LozèreBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
The Roof of France; Or, the Causses of the Lozère
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
Lozère (France : Dept.) -- Description and travel
He then gave me the following printed programme of the day's excursion,
which I translate below, as it shows into what excellent hands the
stranger falls at St. Énimie. The most timid lady travellers may safely
trust themselves to these town councillors and maires of the little
villages bordering the Tarn. Not only will they be taken he very
greatest care of; not only are they perfectly secure from any form of
extortion: they make acquaintance throughout every stage of the way
with the very best type of French peasant, a class of men, as will be
shown in these pages, of whom any country might justly be proud. I have
now a fairly representative experience of the French peasant. The
dignity, sobriety, and intelligence of the Lozérien I have nowhere
found surpassed. It was a happy thought of the leading men in these
parts to organize a kind of tourist agency among themselves, thus
keeping out strangers and speculators sure to spoil the business by
overcharges. A village mayor here, a municipal councillor there, in all
about a score of the inhabitants, have formed what they call 'La
Compagnie de Batellerie St. Jean,' which ensures the traveller a fixed
tariff, good boats, and, above all, experienced boatmen, for what is
during the last stage of the way a somewhat hazardous journey. The
prospectus runs thus:
'NOTICE TO TOURISTS.
'The Hôtel St. Jean at St. Énimie places at the disposal of tourists a
service of boats between that town and Le Rozier.
'The service is divided into four stages, the entire journey without
halt occupying six hours.
'The corresponding members of the company at the four stations are as
follows:
'At St. Énimie, St. Jean, hotel proprietor and town councillor.
'At St. Chély, Bernard, town councillor.
'At La Malène, Casimir Montginoux, hotel proprietor.
'At St. Préjet, Alphonse Solanet, mayor.
'The charge for the complete transit, whether the boat numbers one
passenger or several, is forty-two francs, which may be paid to any of
the boatmen or at any stage of the journey.'
St. Énimie is what Gibbon calls 'an aged town,' its sponsor and
foundress being a Merovingian princess. For the pretty legend
concerning this musically-named maiden, I refer readers to the
guide-books, liking better to fill my pages with my own experiences
than with matter to be had for the asking elsewhere.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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