China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
For the outlander of washing proclivities, peculiar problems are
offered by a country of no wash-bowls, no soap, only occasional towels,
and the tea samovar as the only source of hot water, a copious draft
on which not only postpones breakfast but compels some of the women of
the family to go out and chop ice for a new supply. Necessity evolves
the tea-tumbler toilet method as our solution. You borrow one of the
precious tea-glasses from the old woman, fill it to overflowing with
warm water from the samovar, and prop it up on the window-sill. The top
inch of water is absorbed into a sponge which is put aside for future
use. Into the remaining two and a half inches a soaped handkerchief is
dipped, with which one washes one’s face, touching tenderly the spots
recently frozen. The reserved sponge will do to rinse off the detritus
of this first operation. Two and a quarter inches of water are left, of
which half an inch may be poured over the tooth-brush. With an inch and
three quarters left, one has ample to lather for a shave, as well as to
wet the nail-brush which is to scrub one’s hands that will be rinsed
with the sponge. Half an inch remains finally to clean the brushes and
razors. “There you are!” With two glasses one may have a bath.
When the breakfast of rye-bread and tea is ended, the men go out to
their various winter tasks, of which the most serious is felling trees
in the forests, cutting them up, and getting home the wood. The women
keep stolidly at their cooking, cleaning, child-tending, and turn to
the spinning-wheel and hand-loom when other work does not press.
In the weeks that follow, each night brings us to a different home,
but never to a changed environment or atmosphere. This type of life is
found, not only among the Trans-Baikal peasantry, but throughout all
Siberia. The log houses down the long straggly village streets look out
upon the same wooden-walled courtyards,--the women peering from their
little windows as the sleighs jingle past. The same ikons with burning
lamps look down as you enter; the same whitewashed oven and shelf and
cradle are there as you push open the felted door. The women of each
district wear the same traditional costume. The bearded host produces
the same vodka. One of the most impressive sights, when one drives out
before dawn into the frosty air, is to see at almost the same moment
from every chimney the black smoke roll upwards, then dwindle to a
thin gray streak. Each woman has risen and heaped green wood into the
cooking-oven. It is as if one will actuated simultaneously all the
people.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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