There is a loch of a very different character from Killean, almost
as little known (a view of it is given at page 708), equal to
anything in the Highlands, only two miles distant from Loch Lochy, in
the great glen--Loch Arkaig. We first visited it many years since,
having been induced to do so by a passage in John Stoddard’s _Remarks
on the Local Scenery and Manners of Scotland_; and it was then a
very noble oak and pine forest loch. The axe went to work and kept
steadily at it; and a great change was wrought; but it is still a
grand scene, with a larger infusion of beauty than it possessed of
old. The scenery of the valley separating it from Loch Lochy is very
similar to that of the Trossachs; through it there are two approaches
to the loch, and the _Mile-Dubh_, or the dark mile, according to
our feeling, is more impressive than any part of the approach to
Loch Katrine. The woods and rocks are very solemn, and yet very
sweet; for though many old pines, and oaks and ashes are there,
and the wall of rocks is immense, young trees prevail now on many
places, as well along the heights as among the knolls and hillocks
below, where alders and hawthorns are thick; almost everywhere the
young are intermingled with the old, and look cheerful under their
protection, without danger of being chilled by their shade. The loch,
more or less sylvan from end to end, shows on its nearer shores some
magnificent remains of the ancient forest, and makes a noble sweep
like some great river. There may be more, but we remember but one
island--not large, but wooded as it should be--the burying-place of
the family of Lochiel. What rest! It is a long journey from Loch
Lochy to Kinloch Arkaig--and by the silent waters we walked or sat
all a summer’s day. There was nothing like a road that we observed,
but the shores are easily travelled, and there it is you may be
almost sure of seeing some red deer. They are no better worth looking
at from a window than Fallow--no offence to Fallow, who are fine
creatures; indeed, we had rather not see them so at all; but on the
shores or steeps of Loch Arkaig, with hardly a human habitation
within many, many miles, and these few rather known than seen to
be there, the huts of Highlanders contented to cultivate here and
there some spot that seems cultivatable, but probably is found not
to be so after some laborious years--there they are at home; and
you, if young, looking on them feel at home too, and go bounding,
like one of themselves, over what, did you choose, were an evitable
steep. Roe, too, frequent the copses, but to be seen they must be
started; grouse spring up before you oftener than you might expect
in a deer forest; but, to be sure, it is a rough and shaggy one,
though lovelier lines of verdure never lay in the sunshine than we
think we see now lying for miles along the margin of that loch. The
numerous mountains towards the head of the loch are very lofty, and
glens diverge in grand style into opposite and distant regions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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