Loch Ericht is many miles long--nearly twenty; but there is a loch
among the Grampians not more than two miles round--if so much, which
is sublimer far--Loch Aven. You come upon the sight of it at once,
a short way down from the summit of Cairngorm, and then it is some
two thousand feet below you, itself being as many above the level
of the sea. But to come upon it so as to feel best its transcendent
grandeur, you should approach it up Glenaven--and from as far down
as Inch-Rouran, which is about half-way between Loch Aven and
Tomantoul. Between Inch-Rouran and Tomantoul the glen is wild, but
it is inhabited; above that house there is but one other--and for
about a dozen miles--we have heard it called far more--there is
utter solitude. But never was there a solitude at once so wild--so
solemn--so serene--so sweet! The glen is narrow; but on one side
there are openings into several wider glens, that show you mighty
coves as you pass on; on the other side the mountains are without a
break, and the only variation with them is from smooth to shaggy,
from dark to bright; but their prevailing character is that of
pastoral or of forest peace. The mountains that show the coves belong
to the bases of Ben-Aven and Ben-y-buird. The heads of those giants
are not seen--but it sublimes the long glen to know that it belongs
to their dominion, and that it is leading us on to an elevation that
erelong will be on a level with the roots of their topmost cliffs.
The Aven is so clear--on account of the nature of its channel--that
you see the fishes hanging in every pool; and ’tis not possible to
imagine how beautiful in such transparencies are the reflections of
its green ferny banks. For miles they are composed of knolls, seldom
interspersed with rocks, and there cease to be any trees. But ever
and anon, we walk for a while on a level floor, and the voice of the
stream is mute. Hitherto sheep have been noticed on the hill, but
not many, and red and black cattle grazing on the lower pastures;
but they disappear, and we find ourselves all at once in a desert.
So it is felt to be, coming so suddenly with its black heather on
that greenest grass; but ’tis such a desert as the red-deer love.
We are now high up on the breast of the mountain, which appears to
be Cairngorm; but such heights are deceptive, and it is not till
we again see the bed of the Aven that we are assured we are still
in the glen. Prodigious precipices, belonging to several different
mountains, for between mass and mass there is blue sky, suddenly
arise, forming themselves more and more regularly into circular
order, as we near; and now we have sight of the whole magnificence;
yet vast as it is, we know not yet how vast; it grows as we gaze,
till in a while we feel that sublimer it may not be; and then so
quiet in all its terrific grandeur we feel too that it is beautiful,
and think of the Maker.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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