The island is about three miles long and one mile wide, curved rather in
the shape of a letter S, which made the most fascinating little bays and
inlets. We used to spend all our spare time rambling about and exploring
it. It is quite uninhabited except for four or five old Spanish
fishermen, who have their little settlement of two or three huts and a
drying shed for the fish, on the beach where we landed. The whole island
is covered with trees and a thick undergrowth, with here and there open
spaces covered with flowers of all varieties. The butterflies are
another great feature, of every size and colour imaginable, and the
mocking birds make the air ring again with their lovely plaintive note,
so like our nightingale. On the beach the shells were a never ending
interest to collect, so wonderful and varied they are. With all these
different amusements we never found time too long, for when we were
tired of investigating the hidden nooks and corners of our Garden of
Eden, we could always sketch, and occupy ourselves in vainly
endeavouring to reproduce the ceaselessly changing and indescribably
beautiful tints of the Gulf, with its waters rippling gently on the
golden shore at our feet, or the picturesque old fishermen in their
faded blue garments, as seen against the dim background of the drying
shed, where the fish were a mass of irridescent mother-of-pearl and
jewel-like hues, and where huge, green glass demijohns for water made
yet another note of brilliant light.
[Illustration:
_7-ft. 0-1/2-in._ _6-ft. 7-in._ _5-ft. 4-in._
_156-lb._ _136-lb._ _80-lb._
_A GOOD BAG OF TARPON._]
At Captiva you fish on the flood tide, which when we first arrived
there, chanced to be about 6 p.m. so we had all the day at our disposal.
About 4-30 p.m. would see us setting forth in the tarpon boats, bigger
and deeper ones than those used on the river, so as to minimise the
danger of capsizing. Gently pulling down to the fishing ground, half a
mile or so away, we would take up our places as near a tide-rip as
possible, for that is where the fish love to feed. The pass is very
narrow, about a quarter of a mile across, so we and any other boats that
might be there would be at very close quarters, indeed the swinging of
the tide frequently brought about collisions between neighbouring boats.
There we anchored, a somewhat difficult business, as the bottom is so
rocky it is very hard to get an anchor to hold.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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