It seems odd that there was ever a time when there were public defenders of false complexions for ladies; yet we find in _La Belle Assemblée_ for March, 1806, a writer pleading in favour of rouge, "which may be rendered extremely innocent, and may be applied with such art as sometimes to give an expression to the figure which it would never have without that auxiliary. The colour of modesty has many charms; and in an age when women blush so little ought we not to value this innocent artifice, which is capable at least of exhibiting to us the picture of modesty? We ought to be thankful to the sex which, in the absence of estimable virtue, knows at least how to preserve its portrait." [Illustration: A VIEW OF DIAPHANOUS DRAPERIES, 1809.] In this fashion-plate for 1809 we see a lady very coolly attired in a white jaconot frock--somewhat scanty and diaphanous--and rejoicing in a gorgeous parasol. Here is the exact description:-- "PROMENADE COSTUME.--A white jaconot muslin high dress, with long sleeves and collar of needlework; treble flounces of plaited muslin round the bottom; wrist and collar confined with a silk cord and tassel. The hair disposed in the Eastern style, with a fancy flower in front or on one side. A Vittoria cloak, or Pyrennean mantle, of pomona-green sarsnet, trimmed with Spanish fringe of a correspondent shade, and confined in graceful folds on the left shoulder. A white lace veil thrown over the head-dress. A large Eastern parasol, the colour of the mantle, with deep Chinese awning. Roman shoe, or Spanish slipper, of pomona-green kid, or jean. Gloves of primrose or amber-coloured kid." [Illustration: SOMEWHAT SCANTY ATTIRE, 1809.] One is perpetually surprised at the scantiness of the attire of those days. It offers such a contrast to the rotundity of the hoop or "circumference of fashion," or to the later crinoline. For 1809 bonnets have suddenly assumed gigantic dimensions--as in the picture herewith--but the question amongst the fair sex doubtless was, Will they last? [Illustration: A DAINTY LITTLE BONNET, 1809.] In turning over the thousands of fashion-plates of the first quarter of the last century one is constantly confronted by designs bearing such titles as "Costume for the Seaside," "Toilette for the Seaside," "Dress for the Seashore." Seaside in those days meant Margate, Weymouth, and Scarborough; and we naturally expect to find trim little frocks, accompanied by tight sailor hats, capable of withstanding the stiffest breeze. But instead of this we find transparent, flowing gossamers and top-lofty turbans, which would never weather the mildest gale. [Illustration: AT FASHIONABLE MARGATE, 1810.] [Illustration: A BOND STREET PROMENADE, 1810.]