The Sunny Side of Ireland: How to see it by the Great Southern and Western RailwayO'Mahony, John
History
The Sunny Side of Ireland: How to see it by the Great Southern and Western Railway
O'Mahony, John
Ireland -- Guidebooks
The Castle held out for Charles the First, but was dismantled by Ludlow.
It was originally a fort of "The O'Donoghue," the chief who centres in
the many traditions which the boatmen weave around every object of
interest in Killarney. He lies enchanted beneath the lake, with a city
full of his people. But at times he has come across the water on his
fiery steed, or danced to the Rincead-fadda on the shores. Whoever sees
him is fortunate, because he gives "good luck, which is better than
money," to all whose eyes meet his.
The ~Gap of Dunloe~ is a gloomy mountain pass cut through the rough
rocky slope in the hills between the Toomies and the Macgillicuddy's
Reeks. It is a magnificent defile, four miles long. The rough
bridle-path running through it, at times almost on the edge of
precipices, beneath which the wild goats flock. It is approached by a
winding road, embroidered on one side by a shady little grove of fir,
larch, stunted oaks, and mountain ash. Through the little windows
between the trees, when the sun shines, the reflection of the river Loe
is caught, as it creeps humbly on its way to the lakes. On the other
side, the mountains throw up a huge wall. Bidding good-bye to the little
grove, vegetation seems to fear to enter the desolate, sterile places in
the throat of the Gap. Where the river widens, at Cushvalley Lough, the
industrious echo-makers most usually greet the visitor. One has scarcely
recovered from the warmth of their courteous welcome, when some
suggestive volunteer, aborigine to the place, with a "Mr. Bugler, God
spare you your wind," secures their services; although you do not call
the tune, you are expected to pay the musicians. But the trifle spent
on the gunpowder for their cannons, or the breath from their lungs, is
well repaid by the mighty mass of air they start into waves of music.
Here, too, the "auxiliary forces," or pony boys, besiege us with their
sure-footed, shaggy "coppaleens." They have come galloping down the pass
at break-neck speed to lend us the assistance of their light cavalry.
Wonderful creatures they are, these horses and riders. The peasant boys
are for all the world the modern prototypes of those "rake-helly horse
boys" of Queen Elizabeth's reign, who filled so many pages of the State
papers. Sinew and muscle knit their loose limbs together, and, in their
eyes, mild and calm as those of the quiet cattle in the field, but like
the surface of their native lakes, covering unfathomed depths, they
conceal souls swept by deep thoughts, and minds clouded by many
memories. The long unrenewed, but still to be distinguished, Spanish
strain is shown in many of their olive-tinted faces and dark features.
But guides safe, and true, and courteous are they, who know every perch
of the dark Pass, where at times the craggy cliffs shut out the canopy
of the sky, and attempt to precipitate themselves across the track. The
point where the path is narrowest, the peasants have called the "Pike."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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