The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
The Spaniards, in fact, are an indolent people, and have no desire to
correct their slothful habits by the bracing effects of cold water;
and although the great ladies, in the utter absence of all occupation,
have no other task than that of fostering their beauty and pampering
their vanity, they do not consider water necessary to these ends:
moreover, water is scarce, and therefore dear. The medical men beyond
the Pyrenees, who might be expected to correct so grave an error,
are creatures of habit, conservative from force of education, and
comparatively cut off from the remainder of the scientific world. The
Spaniard too, besides being an hydrophobist, has always a shivering
dread of fresh air. Whenever he is asked to go anywhere, it is always
_muy frio_ with him. And yet in spite of these customs he is not, we
suppose, more unhealthy than other men.
Lounging one day on the Prado, a great clattering of hoofs was heard,
and the Queen of Spain, in an open carriage, drawn by six magnificent
mules, all over silver and gold, dashed past, escorted by a detachment
of cavalry. By her side sat an ordinary-looking young man, who, we were
informed, was the King-Consort. Every Saturday afternoon, Her Majesty
visits the Church Atocha[11] to pay her respects to a coarse, black
wooden doll, which is wrapped, in a very grotesque manner, in garments
encrusted with gold and stiff with precious stones of sufficient value
to build half a dozen hospitals and endow the poor of Madrid for life.
This image, which is supposed to have been carved by St. Luke, is said
to have been brought from Antioch, and popular superstition ascribes to
it the power of performing miracles.
Within this church we were shown the court dress in which the Queen was
arrayed some years ago when an attempt was made upon her life. It is,
of course, very splendid, and the blood-stained robes were presented to
the Virgin as an offering of the Queen's gratitude for her deliverance
from the arm of the assassin. As the gift is repeated every year on the
anniversary day, the Virgin[12] has now about as splendid a wardrobe as
any modern Queen of Sheba.
While the verger, or whatever he called himself, was explaining this
remarkable exemplification of his Monarch's piety, we observed that he
was smoking a cigarette; upon which we, naturally thinking it was the
correct thing, proceeded to do likewise. That functionary, however, put
an end to our delusion at once, by observing,--
"Señor, the profane may not smoke here. I am within the bosom of the
church, and my actions are consecrated."
Regarding this as one of those singular _cosas de España_ to which
the stranger must submit, we presented the holy, but rather dirty,
gentleman with the cigarette from which our too confiding lips were so
cruelly divorced.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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