In fine, the good Charrier proves with pride that of all the
ornaments which luxury has invented there is none so glorious, so
august, so precious, as furs, and that the privileges of peltry
merchants rightly surpass those of all others.
The masters and wardens of the peltry merchandise had for their arms
a paschal lamb on an azure field. Two ermines supported the shield
crested with the ducal crown, with this device in exergue--very like
that of Brittany--/Malo mori quam fœdari/.
The use of furs dates back to the origin of the world. Plutarch, in
his /Table Talk/, relates that people dressed themselves in skins
before they became acquainted with stuffs. Tacitus assures us it was
the same with the Teutons, Propertius with the Romans.
Robed in rich silk, the Court you now behold
Was once a folk fur-clad against the cold,
says a poet of the sixteenth century. But without stopping at the
conquest of the Golden Fleece, at Rebekah ordering Jacob to put on
his hands and neck kids' skins, at all the examples of the Bible and
of history, we will only remark that the four noble furs consecrated
by feudality were the ermine, the vair, the sable, and the miniver.
The colours of furs admitted into coats of arms were those of the
sable, the ermine, and the vair.
Charlemagne, who loved, they say, simplicity in his apparel, had,
according to Eginhard, the habit of wearing in summer a mantle of
otter's skin; but in winter he covered himself with a mantle of which
the sleeves were lined with vair and foxes' fur. This is corroborated
by the four following verses of Philippe Mousnes, the poet biographer
of this Emperor:--
But in the days of fallen leaves,
He wore a new surcoat with sleeves
Of furs of foxes and of vair
To shield him from the nipping air.
At the epoch of the Crusades, the luxury of furs was carried to the
highest degree in Western Europe; but to remain absolutely fixed to
the Muff, we must register the first apparition of this little fur
about the end of the sixteenth century. In the inventory of goods
left by the widow of the President Nicolai we read: Item, a Muff of
velvet lined with marten.
In Venice, however, we have in our researches found a vestige of the
Muff at the end of the fifteenth century; celebrated courtezans and
noble ladies at that time carried Muffs, which served for niches to
minuscular dogs; and an engraving represents a scene of an interior,
in which a fair Venetian seems to be showing her lover the infinite
games of her lap-dogs in her Muff.
There were at that time in Venice delicious Muffs made after the
primitive fashion of a single band of velvet, brocade, or silk, lined
with fine fur, rounded in a cylinder, of which the extremities were
closed in different widths by buttons of orient crystal, pearls or
gold.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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