D'Aubigné, in his /Universal History/, says in the course of a story
of a besieged town:--"The inhabitants descended thirty paces from the
breach, and among the foremost was noticed a woman /with Muffs/, a
halberd in her hand, who mixed with and distinguished herself in this
combat." Under the designation of /Muffs/ we must understand here
spare half-sleeves like those mentioned in the Library of Vauprivas
/à propos/ of Louise Labé. Under Charles IX. the simple citizen
folk were only allowed to wear black Muffs; ladies of the highest
condition had alone a right to sumptuous Muffs of various colours.
In a satiric print of 1634, signed Jaspar Isac, and entitled /The
Squire à la Mode/, we see carried by a woman, who is accompanied on
foot by a Gascon cavalier, the first French Muff having a direct
relation with that which is still in use at the present day. It is a
sheath of stuff or silk bordered on both sides by a thick white fur,
which grows into an enormous roll at the ends.
But it is amongst the precious engravings of Hollar, Abraham Bosse,
Arnoult, Sandrart, Bonnard, and Trouvain that we see the authentic
Muff really born, and find it in the hands of the Parisian matron,
of the lady of quality in her winter dress, of the /Précieuse/, and
the coquetting flirt. An engraving of Bonnard shows us a great lady
with her head dressed à la Fontange, and in court dress, on the point
of going out; a waiting-maid adjusts her mantle, and a gentleman
attends the beauty's good pleasure; the Muff she carries was then
of a moderate size, with a bow in the middle. The Muff was worn for
style, "for grace," and was made of sable-marten for ladies of the
Court, and simply of dogskin or catskin for the small citizens'
wives who could not devote more than fifteen to twenty francs to the
acquisition of this light hand-warmer.
Antoine Furetière, in his /Dictionary/, has condensed in a few lines
all the materials of a Dissertation on the Muff of the seventeenth
century. At the word /Muff/ we read:--
A fur worn in winter, in which to put the hands, to keep them warm.
/Muffs/ were formerly only for women: at the present day they are
carried by men. The finest /Muffs/ are made of marten, . . . . the
common of miniver; . . . . the country /Muffs/ of the cavaliers are
made of otter and of tiger. A woman puts her nose in her /Muff/ to
hide herself. A little /Muff/-dog is a little dog which ladies can
carry in their /Muff/.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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