Everything we see is summed up in this. Saint-Jean and Bonnard have
preserved for us types of French gentlemen bearing the Muff under
Louis XIV. One, in court dress, carries with much grace a small
spotted Muff, which he holds in one hand, showing a glimpse at
the unoccupied end of the cuff of a fur glove; another, in winter
court-dress, holds with the languor of a /petit-maître/ a pretty
plump otter Muff falling to the hips, giving a gracious curve to the
arm; in the middle of this Muff a vast bow of ribbons or /Galants/,
something like the old trimming called /petite oie/, is displayed
with an excellent effect. In 1680, nothing, according to the /Mercure
Galant/, was to be seen but ribbons purfled with gold, laced,
fringed, wreathed, purled, or embroidered, which were gathered in a
bow in front, of the Muff.
La Fontaine alludes doubtless to the country Muff spoken of by
Furetière when, in the fable of the /Monkey and the Leopard/, he
makes the latter say:--
The king desires me at his Court,
And must have--if I die for't--
A /Muff/, made of my skin, so full of blots
Of colour, and of lines, and dots,
And dappled stains, and chequered spots.
As to the Muff-dog--to finish the registration of the definition
of Furetière--not only has Hollar left us an engraving of it, and
presented it to us under the form of a small Spaniel, but Father du
Cerceau makes his /upholsterer poet/ say--Even the lady's lapdog
barked at me, that ingrate
Cadet, for whom I used to stuff
So many sweets inside my Muff.
The chief hall of the peltry merchants and furriers of the 17th
century, in Paris, was in the Rue de la Tabletterie or Rue des
Fourreurs, which led into the cross-way of the Place aux Chats. The
shops of the retail peltry merchants were nearly all situated in the
City, Rue Saint-Jacques de la Boucherie, and Rue de la Juiverie.
"In these places," says Léger, "are to be found very beautiful Muffs
for men and for women, and very fashionable ones . . . there are to
be sold also very beautiful amices of miniver." He adds a word about
the Palatines properly got up, composed of skins of animals, foreign
and native. The /Livre commode des adresses de Paris/ contains some
designations of peltry merchants and furriers towards the end of the
seventeenth century.
Fashion altered the shape of the Muff considerably under Louis XIV.
From the rare documents which we have been able to catalogue, we
have easily found numerous modifications in both form and volume.
Sometimes narrow and long, sometimes broad and short, it would be
impossible to assign to this little chattel an exact type for all
that epoch.
The Muff triumphed already, under Louis XIII., in the empire of
oglings and at the Place Royale, as it reigned later at Versailles,
and showed itself in sedan chairs in the midst of the alleys of
the park at the visiting hour, lending always to woman a charming
countenance and exquisite graces.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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