The intellect loses itself in seeking the exact definition of this
qualificative of /momentaneous agitation/!
In 1788 a fashion was Muffs of Siberian wolf. According to the
/Magasin des Modes Nouvelles Françaises et Anglaises/, the young
folks no longer carried their Muff after the peaceable and good
citizen-like fashion /à la papa/ level with the bottom of the
waistcoat; they used it, on the contrary, like a plaything or an
opera hat; they held it in their hand while gesticulating in their
promenades, or carried it under their arms like a portfolio strangled
and crumpled between the elbow and the chest.
The little dogs, the Muff-toy-terriers, which had continued in favour
since the Regency, were more in request now than ever; every woman of
fashion had her pug and her King Charles' pet, like those small dogs
that now come from Havanna.
In the celebrated coloured engraving of Debucourt, /La Galerie de
Bois au Palais-Royal/, in 1787, we see circulating in the midst of
that strange crowd which was called the medley of the Palais-Royal,
extravagant types, among them women holding in their hand beside
their furred cloak those incredible Muffs of an immense size, which
figure also under the arms of the masked gallants of the time, with a
small bow of satin attached to the fur.
Under the Revolution and the Directory the fashion of Muffs was
extremes, either broad as little barrels, or narrow and minuscular;
in other respects the fashion varied infinitely, and we must come to
the Restoration to find the first chinchilla Muffs which harmonised
with the velvet witchouras. Absurd fashions to study! What Muff
would the painter choose who wished, by way of allegory, to show
a grasshopper shivering in the hoar frost and the snow, to whom
charitable Love brings a downy Muff? A pretty subject for a concourse
of an Academy which claimed to be /précieuse/ and refined.
In 1835, Muffs, boas, palatines, cloaks lined with marten or fox,
affected odious and indescribable forms: they used to make for a time
Glove-Muffs, a sort of mittens of marten, which were soldered on to
one another where the hands crossed. The Muff, that accessory of the
toilet, ought to be in harmony with the general tonality and style of
costume. Therefore, to undertake to describe it at that epoch would
be only possible in sketching a complete history of Fashion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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