The yellow book, an illustrated quarterly. Vol. 1, April 1894
General
The yellow book, an illustrated quarterly. Vol. 1, April 1894
English literature -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Great Britain -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
of rouge--that demands bodily repose from its dependents--quite outside
the range of practical æsthetics.
But that in the world of women they will not neglect this art, so
ripping in itself, in its result so wonderfully beneficent, I am sure
indeed. Much, I have said, is already done for its full renascence. The
spirit of the age has made straight the path of its professors. Fashion
has made Jezebel surrender her monopoly of the rouge-pot. As yet, the
great art of self-embellishment is for us but in its infancy. But if
Englishwomen can bring it to the flower of an excellence so supreme as
never yet has it known, then, though Old England may lose her martial
and commercial supremacy, we patriots will have the satisfaction of
knowing that she has been advanced at one bound to a place in the
councils of æsthetic Europe. And, in sooth, is this hoping too high of
my countrywomen? True that, as the art seems always to have appealed to
the ladies of Athens, and it was not until the waning time of the
Republic that Roman ladies learned to love the practice of it, so Paris,
Athenian in this as in all other things, has been noted hitherto as a
far more vivid centre of the art than London. But it was in Rome, under
the Emperors, that unguentaria reached its zenith, and shall it not be
in London, soon, that unguentaria shall outstrip its Roman perfection?
Surely there must be among us artists as cunning in the use of brush and
puff as any who lived at Versailles. Surely the splendid, impalpable
advance of good taste, as shown in dress and in the decoration of
houses, may justify my hope of the preëminence of Englishwomen in the
cosmetic art. By their innate delicacy of touch they will accomplish
much, and much, of course, by their swift feminine perception. Yet it
were well that they should know something also of the theoretical side
of the craft. Modern authorities upon the mysteries of the toilet are,
it is true, rather few; but among the ancients many a writer would seem
to have been fascinated by them. Archigenes, a man of science at the
Court of Cleopatra, and Criton at the Court of the Emperor Trajan, both
wrote treatises upon cosmetics--doubtless most scholarly treatises that
would have given many a precious hint. It is a pity they are not extant.
From Lucian or from Juvenal, with his bitter picture of a Roman _levée_,
much may be learnt; from the staid pages of Xenophon and Aristophanes'
dear farces. But best of all is that fine book of the Ars Amatoria that
Ovid has set aside for the consideration of dyes, perfumes and pomades.
Written by an artist who knew the allurements of the toilet and
understood its philosophy, it remains without rival as a treatise upon
Artifice. It is more than a poem, it is a manual; and if there be left
in England any lady who cannot read Latin in the original, she will do
well to procure a discreet translation. In the Bodleian Library there is
treasured the only known copy of a very poignant and delightful
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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