The climbing over the mountain ranges was very fatiguing. It was the
cold season, when the south-east winds prevail, which render the nights
on the plateau of Imèrina most piercingly cold, and we found them
growing much colder as we penetrated further into the interior. As we
could not speak to our men, we had to leave them to proceed in their
own fashion, and carry us when and where they pleased. They were all
fond of long journeys; but unfortunately all did not travel at the same
rate. The palanquin-bearers kept rushing on, so as to get up to the
capital as soon as possible; while the porters with the bedding, boxes,
and provisions followed more slowly. On two occasions we did not reach
the village where we were to spend the night until long after dark.
One night the porters with our beds and provisions did not overtake us
at all, and in consequence we had to go supperless to such beds as we
could make for ourselves under the circumstances, had a very wretched
night, and had to start next morning--a very cold, drizzly one--without
our usual cup of coffee. This, and the night of torment we had suffered
from mosquitoes and the other insects for which Malagasy villages are
notorious, did not tend to put us in a very happy frame of mind.
At last, on the ninth morning of our journey, we saw Antanànarìvo (‘the
city of a thousand men’--not towns--the full and original form having
been Antanànarìvolàhy), the capital of Madagascar, about forty miles
away. We reached Ambàtovòry that afternoon, where we found a small
European house, with a member of the Friends’ Mission waiting for us.
We entered the capital next day. We were met a few miles from it by
the members of the London Missionary Society and Friends’ Missions,
who all gave us a most warm and hearty reception. We had reached our
destination.
Central Madagascar can in no sense be called either picturesque or
beautiful. Those who have described the bare plateau and bald hills
of Imèrina as beautiful must either have an inaccurate notion of what
constitutes beauty of scenery or must have viewed that portion of the
island through a highly-coloured medium. As a general rule, not only
is the central province of Imèrina without the two main elements of
beauty--variety of outline and variety of colour--but the features
are rarely so grouped together as to form any distinct or impressive
combination. The tangled and almost featureless hills of the lowlands
of Scotland afford perhaps the nearest parallel to them that I know;
but even they are beauty itself, and picturesque in the extreme, when
compared with the characterless hills, dales, and ditches of Imèrina.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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