Thomas Hardy's DorsetHopkins, R. Thurston (Robert Thurston)
History
Thomas Hardy's Dorset
Hopkins, R. Thurston (Robert Thurston)
Dorset (England); Hardy, Thomas, 1840-1928
Lulworth Cove is justly considered one of the most delightful and
picturesque retreats on the coast. It is a circular little basin
enclosed by towering cliffs of chalk and sand and entered by a narrow
opening between two bluffs of Portland stone. It exhibits a section of
all the beds between the chalk and oolite, and owes its peculiar form to
the unequal resistance of these strata to the action of the sea. The
perpetually moving water, having once pierced the cliff of stone, soon
worked its way deeply into the softer sand and chalk.
Lulworth is the "Lullstead Cove" of the Hardy novels. Here Sergeant Troy
was supposed to have been drowned; it is one of the landing-places
chosen by the Distracted Preacher's parishioners during their smuggling
exploits, and in _Desperate Remedies_ it is the first meeting-place of
Cynthera Graye and Edward Springrove.
The cove is most conveniently reached from Swanage by steamer. By rail
the journey is made to Wool and thence by bus for five miles southward.
By road the short way is by Church Knowle, Steeple, Tyneham and East
Lulworth--but the hills are rather teasing; however, the views are
wonderful. It is nine miles if one takes the Wareham road from Corfe as
far as Stoborough, there turning to the left for East Holme, West Holme
and East Lulworth.
The entrance to the cove from the Channel is a narrow opening in the
cliff, which here rises straight from the sea. Mounted on a summit on
the eastern side of the breach is a coastguard's look-out, while in a
hollow on the other side are the remains of Little Bindon Abbey. The
cove is an almost perfect circle, and in summer the tide, as it flows
in, fills the white cove with a shimmering sheet of light blue water.
Each wave breaks the surface into a huge circle, and the effect from the
heights is a succession of wonderful sparkling rings vanishing into the
yellow sands. To the east rise the ridges of Bindon Hill and the grey
heights of Portland stone that terminate seaward in the _Mupe Rocks_,
then the towering mass of _Ring's Hill_, crowned by the large oblong
entrenchment known as Flower's Barrow, which has probably been both a
British and a Roman camp.
In the summer steamers call daily at the cove. The landing is effected
by means of boats or long gangways. After having climbed the hill roads
into Lulworth, the pilgrim will not, I am certain, look with any delight
upon a return to them, and will welcome an alternative trip to Swanage,
Weymouth or Bournemouth by an excursion steamer.
[Illustration: CORFE CASTLE
From a photograph taken in 1865
The old-time shepherd stands in the foreground with his dog--a shaggy
ruffian of a now fast-disappearing breed]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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