Among the passengers were several interesting people; Colonel Fabens of
Salem, an idealist, interested like my father in the uplift of the
Dominicans and convinced of the future importance to our country of the
splendid harbor of Samana Bay; Judge O’Sullivan, a mysterious man, who
either was, or assumed to be, very deaf, and yet knew everything that
was whispered on the ship; and whose interest in annexation was more
practical and not quite so disinterested as Colonel Fabens’ and my
father’s. Germany was even then plotting against American influence in
the island, and a few years later German intrigue brought about a
revolution that sent Baez into exile, and placed a very inferior man in
his place. A group of young naval officers on their way to join their
ship, the _Nantasket_, at Puerta Plata, were pleasant additions to the
company. One of these, George W. DeLong, later became famous as an
Arctic explorer. At this time DeLong was twenty-eight years old, tall,
blond, with a firm, underhung jaw, the veiled blue eyes of a dreamer,
and a spirited bearing that somehow set him apart from the other young
officers.
The twelfth day after leaving New York the _Tybee_ dropped anchor in the
harbor of Puerta Plata. Lieutenant DeLong was in the boat that took us
ashore. I remember his sympathy with our delight at the picturesqueness
of harbor, landing place, and town. Mount Isabella rose steeply from the
shore, its lower slopes fringed with fan and coconut palms, the upper
reaches dark with the rich foliage of the mahogany, satinwood, mango,
and logwood trees. The color of the sea was now like molten emerald,
sapphire, and turquoise. In spite of these shifting jewel tints, looking
down from the little boat the water was crystal clear. It seemed as if I
could reach out my hand and pick up the coral on the yellow sands,
fathoms below. The white belly and cruel jaw of a shark appeared below
us, and the hand was quickly withdrawn.
Three days later we sailed into the harbor of Santo Domingo, to find
midsummer weather, a land breeze scented with the perfume of unknown
fruit and flowers. Our captain pointed to the mighty stump of an ancient
tree on the bank of the Ozama River.
“The folks here claim Columbus tied his boat to that tree first time he
came ashore. He set great store by this island, gave it the name of
Espanuela, which, I reckon, means little Spain.”
I remembered my father’s writing me, a year before:
“This is one of the most beautiful islands of the world, ever warm, ever
clad in rich foliage, ever abounding in luscious fruits.”
A white handkerchief fluttered between the iron bars of a
seaward-looking window, high up in an old gray stone building:
“A welcome from the prison,” the captain murmured. “Poor Peynado, he
always salutes the _Tybee_ when she comes and as she goes; he’s shut up
for some political business, I’m told.”
“Do many ships touch here?” I asked.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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