Three gringos in Venezuela and Central AmericaDavis, Richard Harding
General
Three gringos in Venezuela and Central America
Davis, Richard Harding
Central America -- Description and travel; Louisiana State Lottery Company; Venezuela -- Description and travel
Five hours later we left the continent for the island of Amapala, the
chief seaport of the Pacific side of Honduras, and our ride was at an
end. We left San Lorenzo at two in the morning, but we did not reach
Amapala, although it was but fifteen miles out to sea, until four the
next afternoon. We were passengers in a long, open boat, and slept
stretched on our blankets at the bottom, while four natives pulled at
long sweeps. There were eight cross-seats, and a man sat on every other
one. A log of wood in which steps had been cut was bound to each empty
seat, and it was up this that the rower walked, as though he meant to
stand up on the seat to which it was tied, but he would always change
his mind and sink back again, bracing his left leg on the seat and his
right leg on the log, and dragging the oar through the water with the
weight of his body as he sank backwards. I lay on the ribs of the boat
below them and watched them through the night, rising and falling with
a slight toss of the head as they sank back, and with their brown naked
bodies outlined against the sky-line. They were so silent and their
movements so regular that they seemed like statues cut in bronze. By
ten the next morning they became so far animated as to say that they
were tired and hungry, and would we allow them to rest on a little
island that lay half a mile off our bow? We were very glad to rest
ourselves, and to get out of the sun and the glare of the sea, and to
stretch our cramped limbs: so we beached the boat in a little bay, and
frightened off thousands of gulls, which rose screaming in the air, and
which were apparently the only inhabitants.
The galley-slaves took sticks of driftwood and scattered over the
rocks, turning back the seaweed with their hands, and hacking at the
base of the rocks with their improvised hammers. We found that they
were foraging for oysters; and as we had nothing but a tin of sardines
and two biscuits among five of us, and had had nothing to eat for
twenty-four hours, we followed their example, and chipped the oysters
off with the butts of our revolvers, and found them cool and coppery,
like English oysters, and most refreshing. It was such a lonely little
island that we could quite imagine we were cast away upon it, and began
to play we were Robinson Crusoe, and took off our boots and went in
wading, paddling around in the water after mussels and crabs until we
were chased to shore by a huge shark. Then every one went to sleep in
the sand until late in the afternoon, when a breeze sprang up, and a
boatman carried us out on his shoulders, and we dashed off gayly under
full sail to the isle of Amapala, where we bade good-bye to Colonel
Jeffs and to the Republic of Honduras.
We had crossed the continent at a point where it was but little broader
than the distance from Boston to New York, a trip of five hours by
train, but which had taken us twenty-two days.
AT CORINTO
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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