We had a great public meeting in the theatre in the evening, following
a dinner given us by the Soviet and Trade Unions, and, after the
speeches, we formed into a procession, and followed by numbers of
the townspeople as well as the audience, and accompanied by several
regiments of soldiers, we marched down to the S.S. _Bielinsky_ which
was to take us on our voyage. The procession marched all round the
higher part of the town that we might see the finest buildings and the
splendid view from the heights above the river, singing revolutionary
songs all the way.
The summer days are hot but the nights are bitterly cold on the Upper
Volga. One of our number neglected himself, and contracted pleurisy and
pneumonia within twenty-four hours of our setting sail, and his illness
obliged some of us to go forward to Astrakhan and return the same way
to Saratov. The organisation of the steamship, a magnificent vessel,
was mystifying to us. First there was the recognised commander. Then
there was Sverdloff, the Acting-Commissar for Ways and Communications,
who appeared to be the highest authority; then came the Trade Union
Delegate who travels with the ship; then the man in charge of our
party, who seemed to be armed with authority over the crew as well.
There were occasions when orders conflicted, and the result was very
funny. After the great bulk of the people left at Saratov the ship’s
human machinery ran with greater smoothness.
A trip on the Volga was supposed to be one of the great experiences of
the rich traveller before the war. It is an experience anyone may be
very glad and proud to have had. More of the heart and soul of Russia
lies on each bank of this mighty river than can be found in Russia’s
cosmopolitan cities. The country is low and fertile, except for the
desert stretches of the lower reaches. The green of its grass is a
bright emerald. Its roads and farm-buildings are a consistent brown,
like its sun-tanned, wind-bitten peasant people. Wild horses roam the
steppes with the Cossacks and Tartar tribes, some of whom live close
to the river, their brown, substantial houses seeming to rise straight
out of the water in the estuary of the Volga. The enormous rafts which
float slowly down the river, composed of the trunks of great trees
bound together, are things of wonder. They are of enormous size. Whole
families live on them, and huts have been erected on them for shelter.
It takes weeks, even months for these rafts to creep down the river
to the places for which they are bound. Often the rafts are built the
shape of a boat and so sent floating to their destination.
The friendly people waved us their handkerchiefs as we passed. The
passion for art of the Russian everywhere showed itself in the
decoration with green branches of these rafts, of our own handsome
steamer, and of the railway trains in which we travelled.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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