Through Five Republics on Horseback, Being an Account of Many Wanderings in South AmericaRay, George Whitfield
Religion
Through Five Republics on Horseback, Being an Account of Many Wanderings in South America
Ray, George Whitfield
Ray, George Whitfield, 1868- -- Travel -- South America; South America -- Description and travel
If entertaining a stranger, he will press uncut joint after joint of
his _asado_ upon him. This asado is meat roasted over the fire on a
spit; if beef, with the skin and hair still attached. Meat cooked in
this way is a real delicacy. A favorite dish with them (I held a
different opinion) is a half-formed calf, taken before its proper time
of birth. The meat is often dipped in the ashes in lieu of salt. I have
said the Gaucho has no chair. I might add that neither has he a table,
for with his fingers and knife he eats the meat off the fire. Forks he
is without, and a horn or shell spoon conveys the soup to his mouth
direct from the copper pan. So universal is the use of the shell for
this service that the native does not speak of it as _caracol_, the
real word for shell, but calls it _cuchara del agua_, or water spoon.
Of knives he possesses more than enough, and heavy, long, sharp-pointed
ones they are. When his hunger is appeased the knife goes, not to the
kitchen, but to his belt, where, when not in his hand, you may always
see it. With that weapon he kills a sheep, cuts off the head of a
serpent--seemingly, however, not doing it much harm, for it still
wriggles--sticks his horse when in anger, and, alas, as I have said,
sometimes stabs his fellow-man. Being so far isolated from the coast,
he is necessarily entirely uneducated. The forward march of the outer
world concerns him not; indeed he imagines that his native prairie
stretches away to the end of the world. He will gaze with wonder on
your watch, for his only mode of ascertaining the time is by the shadow
the sun casts. As that luminary rises and sets, so he sleeps and wakes.
His only bed is the sheepskin, which when riding he fastens over his
saddle, and the latter article forms his pillow. His coverlet is the
firmament of heaven, the Southern Cross and other constellations,
unseen by dwellers in the Northern Hemisphere, seeming to keep watch
over him; or in the colder season his poncho, which I have already
described. Around his couch flit the fireflies, resembling so many
stars of earth with their strangely radiant lights. The brightness of
one, when held near the face of my watch, made light enough to enable
me to ascertain the hour, even on the darkest night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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