Through Our Unknown Southwest: The Wonderland of the United States—Little Known and Unappreciated—The Home of the Cliff Dweller and the Hopi, the Forest Ranger and the Navajo,—The Lure of the Painted DesertLaut, Agnes C.
History
Through Our Unknown Southwest: The Wonderland of the United States—Little Known and Unappreciated—The Home of the Cliff Dweller and the Hopi, the Forest Ranger and the Navajo,—The Lure of the Painted Desert
Laut, Agnes C.
Hopi Indians; Navajo Indians; Southwest, New -- Description and travel
At eight o'clock Tuesday, April 18, I set out up the canyon with a span
of stout, heavy horses, an exceptionally strong democrat wagon, and a
very careful Mexican driver. To those who know mountain travel, I do not
need to describe the trails up Pecos Canyon. I consider it a safer road
than Broadway, New York, or Piccadilly, London; but people from Broadway
or Piccadilly might not consider it so. It isn't a trail for a motor
car, though the scenic highway cutting this at right angles will be
when it is finished; and it isn't a trail for a fool. The pedestrian who
jumps forward and then back in dodging motors on Broadway, might turn
several somersaults down this trail if trying experiments in the way of
jumping. The trail is just the width of the wagon, and it clings to the
mountain side above the brawling waters in Pecos Canyon, now down on a
level with the torrent, now high up edging round ramparts of rock sheer
as a wall. You load your wagon the heavier on the inner side both going
and coming; and you sit with your weight on the inner side; and the
driver keeps the brakes pretty well jammed down on sharp in-curves and
the horses headed close in to the wall. With care, there is no danger
whatever. Lumber teams traverse the road every day. With
carelessness--well, last summer a rig and span and four occupants went
over the edge head first: nobody hurt, as the steep slope is heavily
wooded and you can't slide far.
Ranch after ranch you pass with the little portable houses for "the tent
dwellers;" and let it be emphasized that well folk must be careful how
they go into quarters which tuberculous patients have had. Carry your
own collapsible drinking cup. Cabins and camps of city people from
Texas, from the Pacific Coast, from Europe, dot the level knolls where
the big pines stand like sentinels, and the rocks shade from wind and
heat, and the eddying brook encircles natural lawn in trout pools and
miniature waterfalls. Wherever the canyon widens to little fields, the
Mexican farmer's adobe hut stands by the roadside with an intake ditch
to irrigate the farm. The road corkscrews up and up, in and out, round
rock flank and rampart and battlement, where the canyon forks to right
and left up other forested canyons, many of which, save for the hunter,
have never known human tread. Straight ahead north there, as you dodge
round the rocky abutments crisscrossing the stream at a dozen fords,
loom walls and domes of snow, Baldy Pecos, a great ridge of white, the
two Truchas Peaks going up in sharp summits. The road is called twenty
miles as the crow flies; but this is not a trail as the crow flies. You
are zigzagging back on your own track a dozen places; and there is no
lie as big as the length of a mile in the mountains, especially when the
wheels go over stones half their own size. Where the snow peaks rear
their summits is the head of Pecos Canyon--a sort of snow top to the
sides of a triangle, the Santa Fe Range shutting off the left on the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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