British -- China -- Tibet Autonomous Region; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
After fifty minutes of fruitless manoeuvring we decided on a new plan.
Half a mile further on, the road left the open space where we now were,
and, running close to the side of the river, was flanked on the other
side by almost precipitous rocks. The road here, therefore, formed a
perfect defile, and we decided to proceed on our way, ignoring the
Bhutya and trusting to his gregarious instinct and a little wholesome
neglect on our part to induce him to follow us of his own initiative. We
moved off in a body--mules, ponies, and men. The Bhutya, tired of green
peas and young wheat, looked after us and followed us at a gentle trot.
We left my syce in ambush just outside the defile, but this proved
unnecessary; for the pony, now quite anxious about being left behind,
pushed his way in ahead of the last mounted infantryman, so that at last
we had him in a trap. But to catch hold of him, now that he was in the
trap, still taxed our efforts. A mounted infantryman grabbed him once by
the forelock, and nearly got wrenched off his own pony by doing so,
while the Bhutya leapt away, leaving in the man's hand enough of his own
forelock to stuff a good pincushion. My syce had now come up. He was an
elderly man, more intelligent in these matters than any of those
present. He tempted the pony with bits of a tsampa chapatti that he drew
from his pocket. The pony, forgetful of wheat and green peas, took to
these. The syce in an instant had the reins of the bridle round the
pony's neck, and would have held him fast had not he been lifted off his
feet by the latter's rearing up. The pony was now free again and very
indignant. Rampaging about, he tried to find an exit through a batch of
mules in one direction and a batch of mounted infantry in the other, but
found himself baffled in both. He looked up the rocks and found them
impossible to climb, looked at the river beneath him and seemed to
contemplate taking a header, but thought better of it, and at last stood
sullenly at bay. My syce's next proffer of his own wayside ration
brought the pony to terms. A rope-twitch was round his lip in an
instant, and a moment later he stood bridled and in his right mind.
So on we hastened to Lhassa at last, glad to have secured the pony, but
now somewhat belated. At Trelung bridge, eight miles out of Lhassa, was
a small garrison, guarding the bridge. The officer in command fed us
with a sumptuous tea. Much refreshed, we sped on our way, getting within
sight of camp just as it was turning pitch dark, and having cause to
realise the efficacy of our own camp defences by the way we floundered
among ditches and abattis when barely twenty yards from the camp
perimeter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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