British -- China -- Tibet Autonomous Region; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
Thereafter, like the man in the sycamore tree, we made haste to come
down. Sixteen days later the column left Lhassa. A few functions
intervened, such as the formal release of our prisoners and the bestowal
of money in charity on the poor of Lhassa. I missed these functions,
having been sent on ahead to the Tsangpo, where preparations for the
return crossing were now afoot. The column at length arrived at the
river. We crossed this time at Parte, where a certain single channel of
moderate breadth, but very deep and therefore not very swift, served our
purposes far better than the double channel at Chaksam. The Sappers and
Miners and coolis had made all things ready, towing the two heavy ferry
boats up many miles of swift current, and rigging up the mysterious
engineering paraphernalia which were needed to swing us across, our
crossing hanging truly and literally by a thread--a thread of thin wire.
Wire, at once the lightest and strongest commodity of its kind, had
since our last crossing been sent up to us, in great quantities, and was
largely used to replace the now rotten rope that had previously been
chiefly employed. A great ferry boat, bearing twenty mules, to which was
attached a string of skin boats laden with stores, to which again were
attached a brace or so of mules swimming in the water, would be swung
across that still swift current, suspended from but one or two thin
wires.
The speed of the crossing exceeded all hopes. It was accomplished in
about forty-eight hours. From South Parte we marched, over a pass that
was new to us, straight into Pete-jong. At the top of that pass facing
southwards we found a wall, which had obviously been built by the
Tibetans in the belief that on our march upwards we would cross the
ridge by this route. It was a well-conceived fortification, and might
have given us considerable trouble.
From Parte Ferry to Gyantse we marched in two columns. Thinking the
crossing of the ferry might occupy several days, and in order to be
prepared for all emergencies such as any possible ebullitions of
hostility that might delay our march, we had laid in at the ferry and
the posts on the way to Gyantse a stock of supplies which now proved
larger than our needs, while our spare transport was only sufficient to
carry on a portion of the surplus.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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