Tokology : $b A book for every womanStockham, Alice B. (Alice Bunker)
Science
Tokology : $b A book for every woman
Stockham, Alice B. (Alice Bunker)
Women -- Health and hygiene
The _chemiloon_ is a union of the chemise and drawers. In the summer
this garment can be made of cotton or linen, and worn with or without
the union under flannels. It can be trimmed and embroidered to one’s
taste. In the winter it should be of flannel or ladies’ cloth.
Chemiloon patterns can be obtained of pattern dealers. Do not expect
that other people’s patterns, or those that you buy will be perfectly
adapted to you. It is well to fit a suit from old material first. Be
sure that it is sufficiently long in the back. Shortness in the seat
is a prevailing fault with patterns for sale. Remedy this by putting a
two inch fold in the cloth on the side, where the back of the pattern
comes. The sleeves of these chemiloons should be long, especially the
flannel for winter. Remember always that the comfort of these garments
depends upon a perfect fit.
A _princess_ garment is a waist and skirt combined. This can be made
of muslin, pongee, or other wash silks. For extra warmth use of tennis
flannel. It can be cut from a polonaise or princess dress pattern,
having it about the length of an ordinary underskirt.
This undergarment can have eyelet lacings in the front darts and thus
make it adjustable to the increasing size.
A princess lining to a dress with the same dart lacings makes a
convenient _maternity gown_. The outside goods of any material can be
draped upon this according to taste or fashion.
_The Divided Skirt_ has become a popular garment with those making a
change in dress. This is made of pongee or other wash silks, mohair
or ladies’ cloth. It is cut like drawers, but has a width of 44 to 50
inches of goods in each leg. This is attached to a yoke, instead of
a band, and cut on the bias, to fit the hips. A combination of the
Divided Skirt and Bates Waist makes a very satisfactory garment. This
is made by cutting the front of the waist and the skirt or drawers in
one. The back of the skirt is cut separate from the waist, and made
longer at the top. The extra fullness is put in at the hips and back.
It should lap about two inches in the back. This is worn over a union
suit, and takes the place of all underskirts or petticoats.
_Equestrian Tights_ are now worn by many ladies as a complete
substitute for petticoats. These are usually black, and are woven of
silk, wool and cotton. Some ladies purchase those that cover the entire
body, like the Union Suits, others wear the drawers only. They can
be found in the prominent dry goods houses of our large cities. With
some fullness or drapery to the dress, the absence of skirts is not as
noticeable as one would suppose.
The dress itself is made on a princess lining, style and drapery being
adjusted and trimmed to suit the taste and need of the wearer.
Clothed in the above garments, with the dress loose enough for the
performance of every bodily function, one will feel as if she had
really broken chains, or escaped prison bars.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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