Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"Calvert, Albert Frederick
History
Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Art -- Spain -- Toledo; Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
The earliest specimens of post-Moorish architecture in Toledo partake
more or less of the character of fortifications. For many years, as we
have seen, after the Reconquest the Christians’ hold upon the city was
precarious, and the first efforts of the Castilian kings was naturally
towards strengthening its defences. The history of the walls of Toledo
is obscure and confused; but it seems certain that a wall has always
extended within historic times across the northern side of the loop
formed by the river. The Conqueror Alfonso VI. strengthened and added to
this defence by the erection of the newer or outer wall, inclosing the
suburb or Arrabal del Antequeruela. He also appears to have restored the
inner or Moorish wall, and has left traces on the magnificent Puerta del
Sol, a Moorish work which must have been quite new in his day. Indeed,
it may possibly have been built by Moorish masons after the Reconquest.
It is a noble and impressive portal to the grand old city, and most
powerfully impresses the beholder. Quadrado will have it that so
dignified a monument can have been the work only of a ruling race, in
the days of its liberty and glory; it could not have been the mere
afterglow of the ascendency and taste of a nation now subjugated. We
may, however, be permitted to doubt whether the political decadence of a
people becomes _instantly_ manifested in its artistic life. The gateway
forms a high tower with two flanking turrets, one square and abutting on
the wall, the other rounded and finishing off the _enceinte_. The portal
is composed of a succession of four arches, all being of the horseshoe
shape, though the outer arches are more pointed than the inner ones.
Above the outermost arch is a double row of arcades of brickwork, the
arches intersecting. Over the second arch is a circular medallion in
relief, representing the Virgin offering the chasuble to St. Ildefonsus.
Another relief in marble is supposed to represent the summary punishment
of Fernan Gonzalez by St. Ferdinand, for the seduction of two young
women. The battlements are of a type common enough in Spanish Christian
architecture, but which Mr. Street thinks was derived originally from
the Moors. Another writer, Mr. O’Shea, remarks: “This gate with its warm
orange tints, that contrast so admirably with the lapis-lazuli azure of
the cloudless sky, its battlement fringing the top, and opening vistas
of most novel aspect, is a treasure for an artist.” The exceeding
quaintness and majesty of this gateway have moved many writers to
express themselves almost too rapturously. Toledo’s other gates--the
Puerta Nueva de Visagra and the Puerta del Cambrón--date from a much
later period.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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