The second day of my sojourn was fine--the first fine day since our arrival
and with several young ladies of the family, I was prowling through the
cedar wood above St George’s, when a dark good-looking man passed us; he
was dressed in tight worsted net pantaloons and Hessian boots, and wore a
blue frock-coat and two large epaulets, with rich French bullion, and a
round hat. On passing he touched his hat with much grace, and in the
evening I met him in society. It was Commodore Decatur. He was very much
a Frenchman in manner, or, I should rather say, in look, for although very
well bred, he, for one ingredient, by no means possessed a Frenchman’s
volubility; still, he was an exceedingly agreeable and very handsome man.
The following day we spent in a pleasure cruise amongst the three hundred
and sixty-five islands, many of them not above an acre in extent--fancy an
island of an acre in extent!--with a solitary house, a small garden, a
red-skinned family, a piggery, and all around clear deep pellucid water.
None of the islands, or islets, rise to any great height, but they all
shoot precipitously out of the water, as if the whole group, had originally
been one huge platform of rock, with numberless grooves subsequently
chiselled out in it by art.
We had to wind our way amongst these manifold small channels for two hours
before we reached the gentleman’s house where we had been invited to dine;
at length, on turning a corner, with both latteen sails drawing
beautifully, we ran bump on a shoal; there was no danger, and knowing that
the Mudians were capital sailors, I sat still. Not so Captain K----, a
round plump little homo,--“Shove her off, my boys, shove her off.” She
would not move, and thereupon he in a fever of gallantry jumped overboard
up to the waist in full fig; and one of the men following his example, we
were soon afloat. The ladies applauded, and the Captain sat in his wet
breaks for the rest of the voyage, in all the consciousness of being
considered a hero. Ducks and onions are the grand staple of Bermuda, but
there was a fearful dearth of both at the time I speak of; a knot of young
West India merchants, who, with heavy purses and large credits on England,
had at this time domiciled themselves in St George’s, to batten on the
spoils of poor Jonathan, having monopolized all the good things of the
place. I happened to be acquainted with one of them, and thereby had less
reason to complain, but many a poor fellow, sent ashore on duty, had to put
up with but Lenten fair at the taverns. At length, having refitted, we
sailed, in company with the Rayo frigate, with a convoy of three
transports, freighted with a regiment for New Orleans, and several
merchantmen, bound for the West Indies.
“The still vexed Bermoothes”--I arrived at them in a gale of wind, and I
sailed from them in a gale of wind. What the climate may be in the summer
I don’t know; but during the time I was there, it was one storm after
another.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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