Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
Another subject which needs to be treated here, although at first
sight it also seems out of place, is that of the characteristics of
the islands of Europe as seen by foreigners; for among the advantages
of choosing the sea must be reckoned acquaintance with those places
which one would never get a glimpse of without a voyage; that is,
those which ships touched at but which did not form parts of the
tourist's objective. Far and away the chief of these were the islands
of the Levant. The opinion that the tourists have of them is probably
rose-coloured by the fact that these broke the monotony of a longer
voyage than they had need of otherwise; but the fact remains that
all agree in depicting them as the spots where human life was at its
pleasantest. Of Chios, in particular, might be used the childlike
phrase which the Italians used to express the height of happiness,—it
was like touching heaven with one's fingers. Nowhere was there greater
freedom or greater pleasure. Such was Della Valle's opinion, who calls
it "the pleasure-place of the Archipelago and the garden of Greece";
nothing but singing, dancing, and talking with the ladies of the isle,
not only in daytime but up to four or five in the morning. Their
costume was the only thing in Chios that could have been improved and
this seems to refer to the style only, for Lithgow says that they
were so sumptuously apparelled that workmen's wives went in satin
and taffety, and cloth of gold, and silver, with jewelled rings
and bracelets; and when he goes on to say that they were the most
beautiful women he ever saw, it is worth remembering that he not only
covered more ground in Europe, but visited a greater number of the
islands of the Mediterranean than any of the others. Besides, there
are so many to confirm it; and although three hundred years ago there
was little of what we call appreciation of nature, or rather, of the
modern custom of definitely expressing such appreciation, there was no
lack of appreciation, and expression of appreciation, of nature when
taking a human and feminine form. Singing, too, seems to have been
part of living hereabouts: in Crete, for instance, the men, women, and
children of a household would usually sing together for an hour after
dinner. When there was a seamy side to their life it was associated
with politics; in this same Crete Lithgow stayed for fifty-eight days
and never saw a Greek leave his house unarmed: generally it was with a
steel cap, a long sword, a bow, dagger, and target-shield. In Zante,
too, labourers went to the fields armed; but then it must be taken
into account that the men of Zante were peculiarly murderous; if a
merchant refused to buy from them his life would be in danger: and
also, it was under Venetian rule, a double evil; first, because it had
no other object than that of benefitting Venetians, and secondly, it
implied opposition to the Turks, which was worse, much worse, than the
rule of the Turks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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