Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 3 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 3 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
On this commanding point there was a village of the Fugábú Kóbber; and
Overweg and I, before we went to our encampment, which was chosen on the
southern slope, paid these people a visit, dismounting under a tree at
some distance from their light huts, and were well received. They
brought us immediately a dish made of the meal of Indian corn and sour
milk, and sat down cheerfully, questioning us as to the difference
between their country and ours, and asking, with regard to the politics
of England, whether we were the friends or enemies of Dár-Fúr and Wadáy
(which countries, together with Bórnu, comprised their political
horizon), and expressed great astonishment at our instruments. They
brought us a lion’s-skin, and soon after another very palatable dish of
deshíshe made of wheat, with very good butter, which had nothing of that
nasty taste peculiar to the butter of Bórnu and the surrounding
countries: the dish was seasoned with dates.
It would have been far more instructive and agreeable to us to be in the
constant company and under the protection of these people, the natives
of the country, who would have made us acquainted with its
characteristic features so much better than that band of lawless robbers
who took no real interest in it, except as regarded the booty which it
afforded them. But they had neither power nor authority; and we were
satisfied that where the Arabs were not able to conduct us, these people
never could. Notwithstanding their alliance with the Arabs, they are
treated with contempt by the latter, and the Arabs never omit to add a
sneer when they speak of the “damned” (“ám bú”) Keráda; for so they call
the Fugábú. Of course the intercourse of these two different people can
neither be sincere nor intimate, and the natives were only waiting for
their day of revenge.
A storm gathering and threatening to burst upon us, we hastened away
from this spot; but there was only a little rain. In the evening there
arrived two Shúwa from the villages of the Woghda, and were thrown into
irons, in order not to betray the approach of the Arabs.
[Sidenote: Sunday, October 12th.]
We went on a short distance to another well situated in a considerable
hollow or basin, which might afford, and has once afforded a splendid
place for cultivation, but which at present was entirely blocked up and
made really impassable by rank and wild vegetation. With great trouble
we penetrated with the first horsemen to the well. Nobody had made use
of it for a long period. The water was very bad and unwholesome. The
Arabs had not encamped at this place for at least seven years; hence
there was a rich abundance of excellent food for the camels; but the
danger from beasts of prey was also very great. The ground was full of
elephants’ dung; and wild pigeons were hovering about in great numbers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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