“Late in the evening we continued our way, and next day early entered
Wady Sirhan, where the character of our journey underwent a considerable
modification; for the northerly Arabian desert, which we are now
traversing, offers, in spite of all its dreariness, some spots of
comparatively better cast, where water is less scanty and vegetation less
niggard. These spots are the favorite resorts of Bedouins, and serve,
too, to direct the ordinary routes of whatever travellers, trade-led or
from other motives, may venture on this wilderness. These oases, if
indeed they deserve the name, are formed by a slight depression in the
surrounding desert surface, and take at times the form of a long valley,
or of an oblong patch, where rock and pebble give place to a light soil
more or less intermixed with sand, and concealing under its surface a
tolerable supply of moisture at no great distance below ground. Here, in
consequence, bushes and herbs spring up, and grass, if not green all the
year round, is at least of somewhat longer duration than elsewhere;
certain fruit-bearing plants, of a nature to suffice for meagre Bedouin
existence, grow here spontaneously; in a word, man and beast find not
exactly comfortable accommodation, but the absolutely needful supply.
Such a spot is Wady Sirhan, literally, the ‘Valley of the Wolf.’”
They entered Wady Sirhan on June 21st. “Passing tent after tent, and
leaving behind us many a tattered Bedouin and grazing camel, Salim at
last indicated to us a group of habitations, two or three of which seemed
of somewhat more ample dimensions than the rest, and informed us that our
supper that night (for the afternoon was already on the decline) would be
at the cost of these dwellings. ‘Ajaweed,’ _i.e._, ‘generous fellow,’ he
subjoined, to encourage us by the prospect of a handsome reception. Of
course we could only defer to his better judgment, and in a few minutes
were alongside of the black goats’ hair coverings where lodged our
intended hosts.
“The chief or chieflet, for such he was, came out, and interchanged a few
words of masonic laconism with Salim. The latter then came up to us
where we remained halted in expectation, led our camels to a little
distance from the tents, made them kneel down, helped us to disburden
them, and while we installed ourselves on a sandy slope opposite to the
abodes of the tribe, recommended us to keep a sharp lookout after our
baggage, since there might be pickers and stealers among our hosts, for
all ‘Ajaweed’ as they were. Disagreeable news! for ‘Ajaweed’ in an Arab
mouth corresponds the nearest possible to our English ‘gentlemen.’ Now,
if the gentlemen were thieves, what must the blackguards be? We put a
good face on it, and then seated ourselves in dignified gravity on the
sand awaiting the further results of our guide’s negotiations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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