“In manners, as in locality, the worthies of Djowf occupy a sort of
half-way position between Bedouins and the inhabitants of the cultivated
districts. Thus they partake largely in the nomad’s aversion to
mechanical occupations, in his indifference to literary acquirements, in
his aimless fickleness too, and even in his treacherous ways. I have
said, in the preceding chapter, that while we were yet threading the
narrow gorge near the first entrance of the valley, several horsemen
appeared on the upper margin of the pass, and one of them questioned our
guide, and then, after a short consultation with his companions, called
out to us to go on and fear nothing. Now, the name of this individual
was Suliman-ebn-Dahir, a very adventurous and fairly intelligent young
fellow, with whom next-door neighborhood and frequent intercourse
rendered us intimate during our stay at the Djowf. One day, while we
were engaged in friendly conversation, he said, half laughing, ‘Do you
know what we were consulting about while you were in the pass below on
the morning of your arrival? It was whether we should make you a good
reception, and thus procure ourselves the advantage of having you
residents among us, or whether we should not do better to kill you all
three, and take our gain from the booty to be found in your baggage.’ I
replied with equal coolness, ‘It might have proved an awkward affair for
yourself and your friends, since Hamood your governor could hardly have
failed to get wind of the matter, and would have taken it out of you.’
‘Pooh!’ replied our friend, ‘never a bit; as if a present out of the
plunder would not have tied Hamood’s tongue.’ ‘Bedouins that you are,’
said I, laughing. ‘Of course we are,’ answered Suliman, ‘for such we all
were till quite lately, and the present system is too recent to have much
changed us.’ However, he admitted that they all had, on second thoughts,
congratulated themselves on not having preferred bloodshed to
hospitality, though perhaps the better resolution was rather owing to
interested than to moral motives.
“The most distinctive good feature of the inhabitants of Djowf is their
liberality. Nowhere else, even in Arabia, is the guest, so at least he
be not murdered before admittance, better treated, or more cordially
invited to become in every way one of themselves. Courage, too, no one
denies them, and they are equally lavish of their own lives and property
as of their neighbors’.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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