Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
The small sum of money belonging to me, which I had sewn and hidden in
different parts of my mendicant attire, together with the tolerably
rich harvest of my Hadji dealings amongst the Turkomans, had {64}
abundantly provided for me, so that I was in a position to hire a
camel for myself alone; but I was dissuaded by Hadji Bilal and Sultan
Mahmoud, who remarked that an appearance of wretchedness calculated to
excite compassion was the best guarantee for safety amongst these
nomads; while their covetousness was sure to be excited by the
slightest sign of affluence. A suspicion of wealth might convert the
best friend into a foe. They named several of the Hadjis who were well
provided with means, and who, nevertheless, for the sake of prudence,
were obliged to wander on in rags and on foot. I admitted the
necessity, and secured a joint share in a camel, only stipulating for
permission to make use of a kedjeve (pair of wooden baskets, hanging
down from the two sides of the camel), as I should find it very
fatiguing, with my lame foot and without cessation, to ride day and
night forty stations, squeezed with another into the same wooden
saddle. At first, Ilias objected, because, according to him (and he
was indeed right), the kedjeve in the desert would have been a double
burden for the poor beast. Khandjan, however, at last persuaded him,
and he consented. On the journey to Khiva, which we were to perform in
twenty days, and of which everyone spoke in a manner to make us feel
fearful misgivings, I should at least have the consolation of being
able now and then to sleep a little; but what pleased me most in the
whole arrangement was, that I should have for my _vis-à-vis_ and
'equipoise,' as the two kedjeve were termed, my bosom friend Hadji
Bilal, whose society began by degrees to become indispensable for me.
After the dialogue was over, we paid, as is the custom, the hire
beforehand. Hadji Bilal said a Fatiha; and after Ilias {65} had passed
his fingers through his beard, consisting, it is true, of only a few
straggling hairs, we had no occasion to take any other steps, and we
but begged that the departure might be hastened as much as possible.
This, however, he could not promise, as it depended upon the
Kervanbashi of the Khan, who, with his buffaloes, was to place himself
at the head of our karavan. In a few days we were ready to start for
Etrek, our rendezvous. After the preparations had been completed I
burnt with twofold ardour to quit Gömüshtepe: for, first, we had lost
time here, and I perceived that the hot season was more and more
advancing, and we feared that the rain-water, still to be found in the
desert, would become scarcer; and secondly, I began to grow uneasy at
the ridiculous reports which were in circulation respecting me. Whilst
many saw in me merely a pious Dervish, others could not rid themselves
of the idea that I was a man of influence, an envoy of the Sultan, in
correspondence with the Turkish Ambassador in Teheran, who was
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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