Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
2. The middle route, which follows a northerly direction only as far
as the original ancient channel of the Oxus, and then, passing between
the Great and the Little Balkhan, turns to the north-east towards
Khiva.
3. The third is the straight route and the shortest; for while we
require twenty-four days for the first, and twenty for the second,
this one may be performed in fourteen. Immediately on leaving Etrek
one takes a north-easterly direction, through the Göklen and Tekke
Turkomans. At every station wells of sweet drinkable water occur. Of
course a karavan must be on good terms with the tribes above named,
and must count from two to three thousand men, otherwise the passage
is impossible. How great then was my joy, when one evening a messenger
from Ata-bay brought us the intelligence that the Kervanbashi would
leave his encampment early the following morning, and would give us
rendezvous the day after at noon, on the opposite bank of the Etrek,
whence we were to proceed all together upon our great journey through
the desert! Ilias issued orders for us all to complete our
preparations as speedily as possible. We therefore that very same
evening got our bread ready; we once more salted our large pieces of
camel-flesh, which we had received from the nomads in payment for the
benedictions we had lavished on them. Who then was {82} happier than
I, when the next day I mounted the kedjeve with Hadji Bilal, and in my
creaking seat slowly left Etrek, borne forwards by the wave-like pace
of the camel?
For the sake of security, Kulkhan was pleased to regard it as
necessary to give us his escort for this day; for although we numbered
from fifteen to twenty muskets, it was yet very possible that we might
have to encounter a superior force of robbers, in which case the
presence of Kulkhan might prove of the most important service, as the
greater part of the Etrek bandits were under his spiritual guidance,
and followed his orders blindfold. I had almost forgotten to mention
that our Kulkhan was renowned, not only as the grey-beard of the
Karaktchi, but also as Sofi (ascetic), a title he bore upon his seal:
of the pious appellation he was not a little proud. I had indeed
before my eyes one of the best-defined pictures of hypocrisy when I
saw Kulkhan, the author of so many cruelties, sitting there amongst
his spiritual disciples: he who had ruined the happiness of so many
families, expounding what was prescribed respecting the holy
purifications, and the ordinances directing the close cutting of the
moustache! Teacher and scholar seemed alike inspired. In the confident
assurances of their own piety, how many of these robbers were already
dreaming of their sweet rewards in Paradise!
[Tribe Kem]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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