Travels in China, Containing Descriptions, Observations, and Comparisons, Made and Collected in the Course of a Short Residence at the Imperial Palace of Yuen-Min-Yuen, and on a Subsequent Journey through the Country from Pekin to CantonBarrow, John, Sir
History
Travels in China, Containing Descriptions, Observations, and Comparisons, Made and Collected in the Course of a Short Residence at the Imperial Palace of Yuen-Min-Yuen, and on a Subsequent Journey through the Country from Pekin to Canton
Barrow, John, Sir
China -- Description and travel
Between the other two gates, in the south wall, and the corresponding
and opposite ones on the north side of the city, run two streets
perfectly straight, each being four English miles in length, and about
one hundred and twenty feet in width. One street also of the same width
runs from one of the eastern to the opposite western gate, but the other
is interrupted by the north wall of the imperial city, round which it is
carried. The cross streets can be considered only as lanes branching
from these main streets at right angles; are very narrow; but the houses
in them are generally of the same construction as those in the great
streets. The large houses of the state officers are in these lanes.
Although the approach to Pekin afforded little that was interesting, we
had no sooner passed the gate and opened out the broad street, than a
very singular and novel appearance was exhibited. We saw before us a
line of buildings on each side of a wide street, consisting entirely of
shops and warehouses, the particular goods of which were brought out and
displayed in groupes in front of the houses. Before these were generally
erected large wooden pillars, whose tops were much higher than the eves
of the houses, bearing inscriptions in gilt characters, setting forth
the nature of the wares to be sold, and the honest reputation of the
seller; and, to attract the more notice, they were generally hung with
various coloured flags and streamers and ribbands from top to bottom,
exhibiting the appearance of a line of shipping dressed, as we sometimes
see them, in the colours of all the different nations in Europe. The
sides of the houses were not less brilliant in the several colours with
which they were painted, consisting generally of sky blue or green mixed
with gold: and what appeared to us singular enough, the articles for
sale that made the greatest show were coffins for the dead. The most
splendid of our coffin furniture would make but a poor figure if placed
beside that intended for a wealthy Chinese. These machines are seldom
less than three inches thick, and twice the bulk of ours. Next to those
our notice was attracted by the brilliant appearance of the funeral
biers and the marriage cars, both covered with ornamental canopies.
At the four points where the great streets intersect one another were
erected those singular buildings, sometimes of stone, but generally of
wood, which have been called triumphal arches, but which, in fact, are
monuments to the memory of those who had deserved well of the community,
or who had attained an unusual longevity. They consist invariably of a
large central gateway, with a smaller one on each side, all covered with
narrow roofs; and, like the houses, they are painted, varnished, and
gilt in the most splendid manner.
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