and the stranger has no alternative left him, but to console them with the hope of recovery through Providence, if he will not make use of common domestic remedies. Should he have coffee and sugar served, or at least a pipe of good tobacco, he will cause them a great pleasure. Every man takes a few whiffs from the pipe and then hands it to his neighbour, and thus it circulates among them. He must not, however, imagine that, when the pipe is out and the coffee finished, the natives will take their leave, for they become then, on the contrary, more talkative as their bashfulness is dissipated by his condescension. There is, in fine, no other way of getting rid of these troublesome visitors than by pretending to be overcome with sleep from weariness and fatigue. When they observe his eyes to be shut they all rise, and leave the hut so quietly that they are scarcely heard. Having got rid of the men the worst is not yet over, for then come the women tormented with curiosity to see a Frank. They assemble generally at some distance before the hut he inhabits, and anxiously await the moment he may quit the house and exhibit himself to them. At first they are afraid to approach, but in a short time, or by presenting a piece of sugar to their children, they become as familiar with him as if he had lived for years among them. The villages situated on the road to Dongola or Khartoom are very much plagued by the frequent marches of troops through them, and especially with the frequent journeys of the Turkish officers. The latter on arriving at a village, immediately take possession of the best hut, leave the inhabitants no time to take their few chattels away with them, but drive them out whip in hand, and heap every species of abuse on the poor natives. All the articles of food they require are demanded in an authoritative tone, and if they be not immediately forthcoming they again resort to the whip; and fowls, or pigeons, or any living thing that is not willingly given, is shot down by the officer or his servants in the streets before the houses. Payment is totally out of the question; in all villages, therefore, exposed to the marches of the Egyptians, very little poultry or other animals subservient as articles of food are to be met with; for the inhabitants keep their stock and provisions concealed. But no sooner do they hear that the traveller is a Frank, than they bring him everything he asks for; their demands are very moderate, and they frequently will not accept anything in return. They are also very attentive in procuring everything he may require for his journey onwards; whereas the Turks frequently have, in this respect, to suffer a deficiency of many things. The natives of Kordofan are altogether the best tempered people in the world, if they are but treated with common civility, and differ widely from their neighbours in Sennaar, who although under the same government, situate under the same degree of latitude, and for the most part