Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
A long interval has elapsed since I gave you in my letter of
August 1814, the news of my happy arrival at Djidda from my Nubian
journey. The difficulty of correspondence between the Hedjaz and
Egypt, arising from the jealous policy of the newly established
Turkish government, is one of the reasons which have prevented me
from sending you any account of the journey, which I have just
accomplished. Another is, I am sorry to say, repeated and long
continued attacks of illness. It is now eight days since I am
returned to this city, in a weak state of health, still suffering
from the effects of a fever which detained me three months at Medina,
and had nearly put a stop to all further travels. The receipt of your
obliging favour of the 10th September, 1814, and of a letter from
Mr. Hamilton, of the 4th June, of the same year, have contributed
more than medicines can do to revive my strength, and to exhilarate
my spirits. Indeed the assurance which these letters contain, of my
former labours having met with the approbation of my employers, has
been to me the source of most heartfelt joy, and the encouragement
which I have derived from it, has entirely banished from my mind
that despondency, which my bodily sufferings had caused.
My physicians will not permit me to write much, I can therefore
give you but a short sketch of my travels in the Hedjaz. On my
arrival at Djidda in August 1814, I remained there about a month,
principally employed in endeavouring to procure a supply of money,
a bill I had taken with me from Cairo, upon a person residing there,
not having been honoured. Having at last succeeded in obtaining a
temporary supply, sufficient until I should receive answers from
Egypt, I went to Tayf, five days journeys east of Djidda, where I
spent the Ramadhan and met the Pasha of Egypt, Mohammed Aly, who gave
me the most polite reception, having already seen me at Cairo. It had
been my wish to push on farther into the mountains of the Hedjaz,
but the whole country was over-run by parties of hostile Wahabi,
and the road itself from Tayf to Kolatsh, eight hours distant, where
the Turkish head quarters were, was continually infested by them. I
returned therefore from Tayf to Mekka, where I past the months
of September, October, and November, and after recovering from a
violent attack of dysentery, I performed on the 25th of November,
in the company of more than eighty thousand pilgrims, the Hadj to
Mount Arafat. In the beginning of January, I set out from Mekka to
Medina, a journey of ten or eleven days, mostly through deserts. My
project was to remain about three weeks at Medina, and to return
from thence over land to Egypt, in the hopes of being able to visit
on my road, some ruins at a place called Hedjer, six days north of
Medina, where I expected to meet with some specimens of the most
ancient Arabian monuments. Six days after my arrival at Medina,
I was attacked by a fever which kept me chained to my carpet until
April.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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