Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
We had to wait till the pasha should be ready to receive us at one
o'clock. Then he sent to us, and we walked off through the streets to
his palace, locally known as the porte. The entrance was surrounded with
a crowd of janissaries. When we had passed them we were ushered into the
room of the secretary, whom we found sitting in one corner of his sofa,
surrounded with agas in so much state that I mistook him for the pasha
himself. We were there but a few minutes, but long enough to see that he
must be a man of talent. We afterwards learnt that he was and had many
accomplishments. He could write, ride, and play the djerid better than
anyone. The djerid he could cast as high as a minaret. Presently we were
led through a crowd of servants into the presence of the pasha. He was
in the corner, sitting in great magnificence. His pelisse was worth
20,000 piastres. By his side was a diamond-hilted dagger and two
snuff-boxes set in diamonds and pearls. Three chairs, covered with red
brocade, were placed before him for us to sit on. Our two dragomans
stood on either side of us, and, at each word spoken and answered to the
pasha, moved their heads and their hands from their mouth to their head.
The conversation was as follows. We were asked whence we came, and when
we had replied, the friendship between the Porte and England was
referred to, and the pasha desired the Jew--our host--to treat us, being
Englishmen, with all possible attention. The mention of authority led
the pasha to tell us that he commanded in Retimo and Canea, as well as
in Candia. He next begged to know if we brought any news; whether there
had been any fighting in the west of Europe; and whether Buonaparte had
put into execution his threat of invading England. To this we replied
that he knew better than to try.
Sweetmeats were then handed round, and rose-water and other essences
sprinkled out of narrow-necked bottles on to our hands and wiped with a
beautifully embroidered napkin. After about half an hour we rose, and
the pasha having said 'You are welcome: I am glad of your arrival,' we
withdrew. Our departure was marked by the usual battle among the chiouks
for bakshish.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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