Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
The passage is always eight or ten feet wide, and four, five, six,
eight, or ten feet or more high. In many places it had fallen in. The
peasants tell all sorts of stories about it. They told me that in one
place there are reeds and a pool, and that the hole goes right through
the mountain for three miles; that a sow went in and came out seven
years after with a litter of pigs; and so on.
We slept at Hagios Deka, left it at dawn and rode close to the foot of
Ida through a very rich country, and in spite of waiting an hour on the
road, reached Candia in seven hours and a half. It was evident that for
purposes of his own our janissary had taken us something like fifteen
hours out of our way in coming, and we had a serious dispute with him in
consequence. Our hurrying back was of no use. There was no prospect of
our getting away.
_Candia._--We have plenty of time on our hands and can only employ it in
the worst possible way by the assistance of the agas, who in the name
of dullness come and pass away their ennui in our company. To crown our
bliss, imagine us sleeping, feeding, and sitting all in one room,
without the possibility of finding a hole to hide our heads alone in.
What was to me perhaps the worst affliction of all, was that to
entertain our guests we had to have music, wearing on unceasingly in
melancholy monotony. Our situation, in fact, was getting to be very
trying.
We had a visit from our friend Alilah Agas, who begged us to send for
music, which was brought. Then he wished the girls of the house
(Jewesses) to come up and dance, and had we not been there no doubt he
would have compelled them to come. As it was, we discountenanced it, and
he gave it up. But he is a Turk; which is as good as to say utterly
unprincipled. He told me himself that in raising recruits in Anatolia
for the Bey of Tunis, he gave them three hundred piastres apiece, and
set it down as six hundred. That dishonesty and bestiality go hand in
hand with ignorance is well seen among the Turks. Moreover they lack the
civilising influence of women in their society. As soon as their
affected gravity is laid aside, they betray the vilest indecency of
feeling. One cannot give instances, but the fact was painfully brought
home to us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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